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Hey LEVY, I thought nails were bigger than that in Texas.

A 6211781 is the lot number for the nail.

:)
 

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Changed the oil in my 2016 a couple days back. I let it run until the change oil message came on at 15,291 km, changed it at 15,467 km. Last oil change was synthetic because they didn't have any 5W-30 conventional oil left.
This change, I did myself (off warranty), using Valvoline Daily Protection 5W-30 and a FRAM TG11665 oil filter.
Engine hours for oil change = 247, so I averaged 62.6 km/engine hour, an improvement over last time at 59.0 average.
There are two o-ring gaskets on the new oil filter, large top, small bottom, I lubricated both.

Next thing is to make a transmission dipstick, most likely using the motor oil dipstick. The top of the tube is pretty much blocked by some very heavy wire harness. I couldn't seem to budge the cap, does that screw out or just pull out?
Thanks to georgef on the answer re the transmission tube cap.
You turn the plug counter clockwise about 1/4 turn, then you pull it out
A couple other things about the oil change.

The guys at the Dealership loosen the top cover for the engine plus loosen/raise the cover for the air filter when doing a filter change. Neither has to be done on my vehicle to replace the oil filter, although working space is very tight that way. The raising of the air filter cover gives more room when putting a socket wrench on/off and the loosening of the engine cover saves taking some shin off the back or your hand when loosening the cap and it lets go. :)

The nut size for the cap is 15/16" or 24 mm and a six sided socket is best since plastic is the material being worked on. I used a 15/16" socket but not 6 sided. Gotta get one if I don't have one somewhere. A swivel ratchet (which I have) works best, giving more swing room. That swivel ratchet is a God send really, so versatile.

Torque of 25 NM (18+ ft. lb) is stamped on the cap. I used 19 ft.lb.

It's interesting that the oil filter is not saturated/dripping with oil when removing it. Looking in the oil filter chamber shows it's empty. No anti-drainback valve in place? or does it empty as the filter is being removed?

Torque for the oil pan plug ..... don't know, but 20 ft. lb. was specified for the previous generations and is a good "snug up" torque. Proper torque will likely save wear and tear on the threads. Mine was a bear to loosen.

Note: When putting the air filter cover back on, make sure the three tabs in the back are properly lodged in their slots, otherwise, an improperly installed cover and possibly a howling noise from the engine. Been there, had that happen and seen it on another vehicle as well.
 

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Driving home from my parents' house on friday night, the van crossed the 200,000 mile threshhold on the original engine. Still running the 0w-20 oil from winter (really should change that). My van also seemed to suck up a bird that was too slow crossing in front of me in the country. Saturday night I had my hood open, topping up my power steering fluid and I noticed some dried on feathers on the coolant overflow hose just under the hood latch. I looked up and stuck to the underside of the hood a few inches from the latch was another group of dried-on feathers. I guess my van is a killer now. Poor tweety. It must have hit the dead-center of the hood, just under the lip and got split by the release handle. I was probably going around 65-70mph, and I remember seeing a bird that didn't reappear after flying in front of the van. At least it was quick.

Today I went to the junkyard and got a driveshaft and whole rear differential/torque tube assembly from an AWD 3rd gen Town & Country with an extended roof. I was surprised to see the words "Cross Country" under the Chrysler name on each side door. It looked factory. Either Chrysler had a few special models like this made, or a conversion company that did the high roof and TV/VCR install added it to the outside as a touring package. Pretty interesting.
 
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Got a flat today.

After 111,000 miles on the original tires, I thought it was time to replace them anyways.

Nitrogen filled @ 42 lbs.

View attachment 58521 View attachment 58522
Now it is time to purge the new tires and fill with fresh nitrogen.

Some claim nitrogen is just a waste of money, is it? 🤔

Releasing cheap air into the atmosphere.
58551


Purging and filling with dry nitrogen three times.
58552
 

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Going through my 4 day old, 105K mile, one-owner, 2010 T&C Touring Plus- taking care of the deferred maintenance- in the last 24hrs- I replaced one of the plastic heater hose Y fittings to the heater core. It developed a pinhole spray of coolant on day 2 returning from the gas station. Checked the plugs- yup originals- Bought six new Champions today, to install tomorrow.
Today, I took it to Chrysler for their free tire rotation and safety check- When he checked the Vin# against their record of warranty work, the service writer had two full screens worth on the tablet. (might have been a lifetime warranty on it) Looked like the A/C system had been rebuilt 2x, power window repairs, new master cylinder, new front calipers, sliding door work, - on and on- last item was a battery in 2017. The inspection really didn't turn up much, shocks, struts & front end are fine. - I will need to do the rear brakes very soon- Two of the 3 year old tires are down to 4 & 5/32's- the other pair is 8/32's- Time to start watching tire prices-- They highly recommended their transmission service- almost $600 for it! (includes a $170 filter!) I checked the fluid tonight myself- I will use my preferred transmission shop- they quoted me $100 give or take for that service. The fluid wasn't burned, but it could stand service.- Belts and hoses-OK, Air filter-OK.
oh, I updated the RBZ radio software, to fix the dark image in the backup camera- much better.
 

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I did the plugs today, originals- 105K miles- the old ones had a gap of about 70-80 thousandths! New Champions plugs are 50/1000 - no wonder the mpg was so bad.
I went for a drive of about 15 miles- about 1/2 was over 55 mph- all in 5th gear.
My average fuel economy went from 13.4 mpg on the readout , when I reset it, to 20.3 mpg.
Battery service, too. I put my digital charger on my battery- it would only charge to 85%- it was 12.4V when I checked from sitting overnight - I took off the post clamps- sanded the corrosion off clamps and posts- treated them with Locktite C5-A . The battery charger now said 100% charged- Voltage had gone up 2/10ths of a volt- topped off the water.
I also, covered the two plastic Y heater hose adapters with heavy HVAC foil tape, to block the radiant heat from the exhaust cross-over pipe - hopefully preventing another leak.
-
58657

These 100,000 mile plugs should have been changed at 75,000 miles-- 75/1000ths gap- an 50% increase in spark gap from new.
58658
 

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Might want to go back and remove those plastic Y pipe fittings, and swap them out for aluminum. The plastic will just break again. Poor choice of material on Chrysler's part. Other than that, you're getting things in order nicely!
 
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Might want to go back and remove those plastic Y pipe fittings, and swap them out for aluminum. The plastic will just break again. Poor choice of material on Chrysler's part. Other than that, you're getting things in order nicely!
Haha, first, I purchased the Doorman aluminum Y kit, installed it and would you believe, it immediately started spraying coolant out of a pinhole defect in the fitting- almost exactly where the plastic one failed. No more aluminum in stock, so I bought the plastic Y kit- it didn't leak-
I'll check back in at 200,000 miles and let you know if it's still working.
 

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I did the plugs today, originals- 105K miles- the old ones had a gap of about 70-80 thousandths! New Champions plugs are 50/1000 - no wonder the mpg was so bad.
I went for a drive of about 15 miles- about 1/2 was over 55 mph- all in 5th gear.
My average fuel economy went from 13.4 mpg on the readout , when I reset it, to 20.3 mpg.
Battery service, too. I put my digital charger on my battery- it would only charge to 85%- it was 12.4V when I checked from sitting overnight - I took off the post clamps- sanded the corrosion off clamps and posts- treated them with Locktite C5-A . The battery charger now said 100% charged- Voltage had gone up 2/10ths of a volt- topped off the water.
I also, covered the two plastic Y heater hose adapters with heavy HVAC foil tape, to block the radiant heat from the exhaust cross-over pipe - hopefully preventing another leak.
- View attachment 58657
These 100,000 mile plugs should have been changed at 75,000 miles-- 75/1000ths gap
View attachment 58658
I believe you had the wrong plugs. Your vehicle calls for Champion Double Platinum.

Hope that is what you used to replace those plugs.
 

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Yes that is what I purchased, -- the "owners manual" told me so, RE14PLP5. From all the rust and corrosion on the plug and how hard they were to break loose, I assumed they were oem plugs from 2010.
58659
 

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Yes that is what I purchased, -- the "owners manual" told me so, RE14PLP5. From all the rust and corrosion on the plug and how hard they were to break loose, I assumed they were oem plugs from 2010.
If those old plugs share same number, then probably are
 

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I decided to clean the crud off one-- yup, the boys in the engine plant used the right plug and, I have to report to engineering, that the plugs, in my case, are not worthy of a 100,000 mile rating. We owned a 2012 Fiat 500 for 8 years and the plugs were to be changed at 70K miles, right on schedule at 76,000 miles, the check engine light came on- I scanned the code with my Bosch OBDII tool- a misfire code! So I installed new plugs and by the next day the ck engine light was off. I thought it was strange that the Bosch OBDII check that I do on any car before I buy it, had zero trouble codes . So, IMHO, back when this software was written, they didn't configure a code for misfire. They just let the customer suffer with continuing loss of mpg and engine performance.
58661
 

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Memory lane for me- I helped make the engine blocks for minivans at Chrysler's Indianapolis Foundry from 1994 to Sept 2005. That's when Daimler closed us down- in their infinite car making wisdom, they transferred the 3.3 and 3.8 block casting contract to Bruhl foundry and they sold those German blocks blocks back to the Trenton engine plant for 2x more than ( we found that out in late 2006, from one of the techs at Trenton) what our foundry was making them for. I could be wrong, but my hunch is, it was easier for our German overlords to get kickbacks that way, after they outsourced our foundry work overseas.
You see, they told our local union, they had to close us down, because it was cheaper to make the blocks overseas- that's when I got my first educayshun about CEO's and CFO's= all of them, are prone to lie to us working stiffs.
 

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i finally got news back about my van

it's had a new transmission put in, and also had to have a new cooler put in to maintain the warranty

i was worried about any gunk or fragments from the old transmission being in the cooler and circulating in the new transmission so that's good

i've also had them replace the input and output speed sensors because it's so cheap and might have been the original cause of the problem

so far it's about $2,700, a much better result than the 3000+ quote i got originally

i should finally have it back in a few days
 

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i finally got news back about my van

it's had a new transmission put in, and also had to have a new cooler put in to maintain the warranty

i was worried about any gunk or fragments from the old transmission being in the cooler and circulating in the new transmission so that's good

i've also had them replace the input and output speed sensors because it's so cheap and might have been the original cause of the problem

so far it's about $2,700, a much better result than the 3000+ quote i got originally

i should finally have it back in a few days
I wish you were able to take apart the original transmission and see what happened inside, would be a fun experience for some, like me!
 

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I wish you were able to take apart the original transmission and see what happened inside, would be a fun experience for some, like me!
i'd be absolutely fascinated to know as well, i just don't have the resources yet to deal with it and it'll be gone by now for the core exchange
 

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there we go, it's back home



it's so smooth i can't even feel it shift, and it's got way more power than before now

only strange thing was my coolant reservior being unhooked at the top there, but it feels secure and isn't going anywhere so who cares ☺

also, no more ATF leak!
 

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Discussion Starter #120
so far it's about $2,700, a much better result than the 3000+ quote i got originally
I cannot believe that you spent at least 5 times the value of the van...

I just replaced the radiator yesterday after it lost more than half of the coolant without a beep... temperature onboard looked normal, no CEL, absolutely no sign... so awkward... I am getting every month the infamous CEL 0456 but nothing for a massive loss of coolant... after driving 160 km in 2 days... I had to add more than a gallon of water to make it to the mechanic... the small transmission radiator was loose hanging there and it damaged the main radiator... the total damage was $320... and I am more and more inclined to stop wasting money and buy a younger van! Who knows what's next... enough is enough...
 
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