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Yeah im not yet, for now we carry 5 gallons or so of water in the back to refill at every major stop. Takes about 2 gallons of water everytime we stop for 30 minutes or more. I will fix it eventually myself since it costs about $800 for a shop to fix it.
Steve, just save up $200 or so and we can talk you through it.

Start a new thread of your own and describe the overheating or coolant loss. It also may not need to be done all at the same time, so you may not even need the whole two hundred.
 
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Yeah im not yet, for now we carry 5 gallons or so of water in the back to refill at every major stop. Takes about 2 gallons of water everytime we stop for 30 minutes or more. I will fix it eventually myself since it costs about $800 for a shop to fix it.
Are you sure it's the water pump and not the metal pipes going to the water pump area?

Buy the part yourself and get a Shop/Mechanic to install it. 1 to 2 hours should do it.
 
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How are you able to do the water pump yourself? I tried to replace mine on my 05 but the pump is so hidden that you cant get to it unless you get under the car. Mopar wasn't able to tell me how to get the car onto jack stands because there are apparently only 4 points on the car for a jack.
LOL, what? There isn't anything I can't fix on these cars, they're relatively easy to work on. Jackstands can be put under any subframe mounting point, and there are several of those. The water pumps are not "hidden" by any stretch of the imagination. I guess I'll have to do a photo section on where to jack.
 

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LOL, what? There isn't anything I can't fix on these cars, they're relatively easy to work on. Jackstands can be put under any subframe mounting point, and there are several of those. The water pumps are not "hidden" by any stretch of the imagination. I guess I'll have to do a photo section on where to jack.
Yeah Mopar was not helpful at all on explaining alternate jack points
 

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Discussion Starter #25
You have the frame and the cradle bolts to use for jacking/jack stands.
That's where I have my jacks, I just didn't know what to call them. I have one jackstand at each end of the crossmember, about halfway between center and where my floor jacks are.
 

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If you get your jack/jackstands under any of the subframe bolts that go into the body, you're fine. I jack under one of these or under the front engine mount/subframe mounting plate. These are the strongest areas on the car. If in doubt use a piece of 2x4 to spread the load. Do not jack under any sheet metal, under the rocker panels, or god forbid, under the engine or transmission unless you know exactly what you're doing.
 

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Trying to pull a water pump from my 2001 DGC 3.3 V6, one bolt has broken. I'm guessing a previous "mechanic" used a low grade bolt as it didn't take a lot of oomph to do it.
I don't have a thread checker, can someone tell me what the bolt thread size and the grade is? It's a 10 mm hex head.
Hoping the pump will slip off after I get the other bolts off.
TIA!
Just did the job on my 06 3.3,
FYI The Autozone gold water pump comes with a couple of new bolts.
My pump was previously done (40-50k miles) by a carefull Mopar tech and all the bolts came out (whew).
I antiseiezed the new bolts too, chased them in/out till it was smooth. and of course no overtightening.
I put the front on ramps, it has a better feel when under a vehicle and yanking on stuff!
I loosened the top right motor mount by removing the top three bolts, this lowered the engine enough to get the pump out.
It was amazing how long the car was running around with noise till I realized the pump was going bad and it started leaking.
 

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I just finished doing a WP on my 09 3.8 and it was not favorite job, but I have done worse jobs during my years of driveway wrenching. After every trick in the book (I could do) to get my broken bolt out, I resorted to getting a Welder to help me. He thought it was going to be a quick job for him, and almost and hour later he finally got it out. Thankfully price agreed ahead!

Sounds like your in middle of the job now, but I was going to suggest a few things before doing a water pump job (adds only a few bucks of extra insurance): the coolant pipe (o-ring), belt, and radiator hose.

Additional notes about hose ...1) spend the few $'s more and buy a good hose! (I didn't and now see that the cheap hose is unevenly cut/shrinking & leaking). So I have to replace only weeks later - oh fun! 2) Be aware the hose has two different size diameters on the ends - just pay mind to that when installing it.
 

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Hopefully, when the pump removed, you'll be able to grab the nub with a vice grip and... viola!

I apologize, I do not know the spec of the bolt.
Home Depot or AutoParts store has a thread checker and some grade 5 and grade 8 bolts available. The HD thread checker is usually mounted onto a shelf rack upright in the hardware isle.

Got a picture of your broken bolt and a picture of a good bolt?
Maybe able to call the bolt out by seeing it.
I just did my water pump the bolt is a M6 x1.0, be very careful when tightening, parts store should have Autozone, etc
 
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