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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to pull a water pump from my 2001 DGC 3.3 V6, one bolt has broken. I'm guessing a previous "mechanic" used a low grade bolt as it didn't take a lot of oomph to do it.
I don't have a thread checker, can someone tell me what the bolt thread size and the grade is? It's a 10 mm hex head.
Hoping the pump will slip off after I get the other bolts off.
TIA!
 

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Hopefully, when the pump removed, you'll be able to grab the nub with a vice grip and... viola!

I apologize, I do not know the spec of the bolt.
Home Depot or AutoParts store has a thread checker and some grade 5 and grade 8 bolts available. The HD thread checker is usually mounted onto a shelf rack upright in the hardware isle.

Got a picture of your broken bolt and a picture of a good bolt?
Maybe able to call the bolt out by seeing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just found a screw checker plate I forgot I had. It's 8 mm dia. by 1 mm pitch, about 22 mm long in case anyone needs to know. Doesn't have grade markings on it, but an M in a hex shape (Probably Mopar?) and numbers 9 & 8. I'll just get the highest grade I can find at the hardware store. My back went out today so I had to lay down for a while.
 

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The Haynes Manual has a section on bolt markings.
Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. The higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles.
 

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I replaced these on a similar van for a friend of mine a few years back. Should be M6 cap screws. The online manual and diagram are clear as mud, but shows quantity (5) of part number 6101451, which are M6x1.0x25. Also shows quantity (4) of 6101682, which are M6x1.0x20. Here's a link:


Your 22mm measurement is interesting, as the w/p screws on my 2.4L Caravan are M6x1.0x22 (part number 6503255).

In any case, every water pump screw I see is M6X1.0.

~Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I stand corrected, my screw checker is mistaken! And it's an old USA made unit by Ruelle Bros., 1974!
Ace Hardware was closed, so I bought a package of 4 hex-head x 30 mm long at Tractor Supply. They had 20 mm which I think would be too short. So the one (unless I break another) will be sticking out the backside. The new ones are grade 8.8. Thanks for that info, Jeepman. I hope that grade is good enough!
I had previously bought universal coolant at Walfart, but I returned it for a refund and bought Zerex G-05 over at NAPA. Twice as much but I didn't want to chance possible problems.
 

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Are you doing a coolant system water flush (or the chem flush) and refilling the system with fresh?
Should be done around every three years and as many as five, even if you reside in mild climate.

Do you have rear a/c heat?

Did you get 50/50 premix or concentrate?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Are you doing a coolant system water flush (or the chem flush) and refilling the system with fresh?
Should be done around every three years and as many as five, even if you reside in mild climate.

Do you have rear a/c heat?

Did you get 50/50 premix or concentrate?
I drove the van every day for about two weeks after it started leaking, and I'm quite sure there's no antifreeze remaining - just water. Haven't used a chemical flush.
The heater lines were blocked off going to the rear by the previous owner.
Didn't want to pay almost double again, so I bought the concentrate. I plan on using tap water. Our well water is pretty clean, it doesn't leave stains in the sink or deposits in the electric water heater.
 

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You can get demineralized water for around $5.00 for 5 gallons at grocery stores, drug stores and many other stores. That's what the antifreeze companies use for their mix. I wouldn't trust tap water unless I knew its purity. My tap water, for example, contains some salt due to the use of a water softener.
 
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I am with you on the concentrate, why pay the gallon price for half water and half antifreeze.
And good call on returning the 'universal' and buying a HOAT (G-05) coolant.
I found an online deal on the Mopar brand HOAT coolant that was less expensive that Zerex last year.

Anyhow, Where I was going with this, it that there is a certain amount of liquid that will not easily drain.
Calculate the water amount that remains by measuring what drains out and add that much concentrate to get 50/50. then dilute the remaining coolant (to fill the system) with the same amount water.

And 50/50 is an acceptable level of protection, but concentrations of up to 70% are sometimes recommended by manufacturer for extreme climates. So I feel a little more protection is ok too...
Here in Florida with an occasional trip to New England, I am mostly concerned with the corrosion control.

Jeepman is right there too, in that demineralized water or distilled water is ideal where most other water has, well, 'minerals' that can cause a mineral build up and loss of cooling efficiency. About a US dollar for a gallon of distilled water is same here in FL.
 
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I stand corrected, my screw checker is mistaken! And it's an old USA made unit by Ruelle Bros., 1974!
Ace Hardware was closed, so I bought a package of 4 hex-head x 30 mm long at Tractor Supply. They had 20 mm which I think would be too short. So the one (unless I break another) will be sticking out the backside. The new ones are grade 8.8. Thanks for that info, Jeepman. I hope that grade is good enough!
I had previously bought universal coolant at Walfart, but I returned it for a refund and bought Zerex G-05 over at NAPA. Twice as much but I didn't want to chance possible problems.
Grade 8.8 metric is the lowest grade, equivalent to grade 5 SAE.
 

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Grade 8.8 metric is the lowest grade, equivalent to grade 5 SAE.
Interesting note there guyonearth.

Kenearl, I wouldn't worry too much about that bolt. It is one of six or seven and it should likely be serviceable for the remaining life of your vehicle.
 
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Interesting note there guyonearth.

Kenearl, I wouldn't worry too much about that bolt. It is one of six or seven and it should likely be serviceable for the remaining life of your vehicle.
I'll take your advice FabricGATOR, since today's the day to get this taken care of. I don't want to wait another day to go to a dealership to get one little Mopar bolt. My back is good enough to be able to attack this now. I found a very good youtube vid by FogoFox amongst all the ones out there, I think is the best.
 

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The bolts in this application are likely undersized. Chrysler should have gone with 8mm instead of 6, because this is a very common problem. I've broken one of the bolts on both my vehicles doing this same job, and one of the bolts that broke had only been in there less than 2 years...and it had anti-seize on it.
 

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How are you able to do the water pump yourself? I tried to replace mine on my 05 but the pump is so hidden that you cant get to it unless you get under the car. Mopar wasn't able to tell me how to get the car onto jack stands because there are apparently only 4 points on the car for a jack.
 

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How are you able to do the water pump yourself? I tried to replace mine on my 05 but the pump is so hidden that you cant get to it unless you get under the car. Mopar wasn't able to tell me how to get the car onto jack stands because there are apparently only 4 points on the car for a jack.
Definitely an under-vehicle job, with the wheel off.
The jack points on my old GC are pretty much rusted out. So I had to go under the frame between the wheels. I bought two cheap floor jacks from Walfart for $35 each, I figured that was better than one jack at $50-70. So I didn't need to dink around getting the whole front of the vehicle raised.
You really need to remove the top engine mount and lower the engine an inch or so. Sounds scary but this video walks you through the whole process pretty good:
 

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Definitely an under-vehicle job, with the wheel off.
The jack points on my old GC are pretty much rusted out. So I had to go under the frame between the wheels. I bought two cheap floor jacks from Walfart for $35 each, I figured that was better than one jack at $50-70. So I didn't need to dink around getting the whole front of the vehicle raised.
You really need to remove the top engine mount and lower the engine an inch or so. Sounds scary but this video walks you through the whole process pretty good:
I just dont like it, they warned me that using a jack on the middle of the axle has a very high risk of snapping the axle in half. Also I dont have a scissor jack to rest the engine on while I move it up and down.
 

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I just dont like it, they warned me that using a jack on the middle of the axle has a very high risk of snapping the axle in half. Also I dont have a scissor jack to rest the engine on while I move it up and down.
You have the frame and the cradle bolts to use for jacking/jack stands.

Yes, don't use a jack in the middle of any axle, especially a rusted axle.

You need the necessary tools to do the job. Don't go to work without them.
 

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You have the frame and the cradle bolts to use for jacking/jack stands.

Yes, don't use a jack in the middle of any axle, especially a rusted axle.

You need the necessary tools to do the job. Don't go to work without them.
Yeah im not yet, for now we carry 5 gallons or so of water in the back to refill at every major stop. Takes about 2 gallons of water everytime we stop for 30 minutes or more. I will fix it eventually myself since it costs about $800 for a shop to fix it.
 

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For me, I cut a dado into a couple of lengths of oak 2 x 4 from a forklift pallet. Nice hardwood. The dado slot accommodates the vans pinch weld so that I can use a floor jack or jack stands without damaging the factory jack points.

I can jack up a side of the van with my floor jack and support it with a jack stand right next to where the floor jack is. Then move to the opposite side (if required) and do the same on that side.
 
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