The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

81 - 100 of 119 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Mine is a 2001 3.3 engine. Just looked on ebay, and your egr is all one piece. Mine is two sections connected by hoses. I dont think it would have helped if you had saved your old one. Maybe try one from a junkyard. But you may not be able to see the valve mating area to determine if you are getting a good one. Looks like you may have to gamble a few more bucks to find the answer, and you've spent so much already. Could you talk one of the forum members in your area into temporarily swapping from another car just to find out? If yours is like mine, it only takes a few minutes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #82
I have a neighbor and also a friend who have the same year van and engine. I may try the swap idea with one of them or perhaps try my luck at the local parts yard.

Most of the parts I've replaced were originals with > 127K miles on them so I don't feel I wasted too much $$$ on them. The $$$ I paid to repair shops who were sure they could find the answer might be a different story.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
jrb, sounds like you have already bought the EGR valve, as I see your new thread about the gasket. My gasket would only go on one way, but of course my EGR is not the same as yours. Amen to your comment about the dollars to the repair shops that said they could find the answer, but couldnt. A big reason why I do all the car work I can manage.
This may be too much information, but I should qualify my earlier posts by saying that my bad idle problem has now turned out to be two issues. After a week of perfect idle and great all around performance, I had what I believe is called a hot soak episode yesterday. Restarting a hot engine after a twenty minute shutdown caused sputtering and stalling, but cleared up after a minute of holding the throttle to 1500 rpm. It was fine at idle the rest of the day. So now I'm looking for a leaking fuel injector?
Anyway, I like crapavans suggestion about the ignition module. Its interesting that I had that part fail last year, now the EGR, and probably an injector, and in all three incidents, no CEL or trouble code.

Btw, crapavan, I should probably be able to guess the answer, but havent yet. So what is a crap handle?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #85
Actually I haven't bought the valve yet, just doing some advance planning in case I do buy one ( I try to do most of the work on the van too) or I'm able to find someone to try the swap idea with.

In answer to crapavan's post, the dealer assured me that they had verified that there are no ignition or injector problems (pretty much all ignition parts including the coil have been replaced). The van actually runs great except for this issue when stopped and in drive.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #86
Finally had the chance to try the EGR valve swap suggestion (swapping my egr valve (temporarily) with a known good one), but unfortunately it did not solve the vibration problem. I did take the opportunity to replace all the egr gaskets and I cleaned the egr tube that goes between the valve and the manifold.

Just as a added piece of info that might give someone a clue as to the cause of the vibration, as I'm decelerating while coming to a stop, as the rpm drops down below 800, the vibration begins. Then with the van stopped, the rpm is at a steady 600 and vibrating until I step on the gas and the rpm goes back above 800.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
I really thought the EGR would solve the problem, so now its time to grab at straws. If your friend is a real good friend, maybe you can swap throttle bodies. Three bolts, two electrical connectors and one vacuum hose. This would test for bad throttle position sensor, idle speed motor and dirty throttle plate, possibly not being allowed to close all the way. How about your O2 sensor? I dont recall it being mentioned in this thread. I think all of these items can affect idle without necessarily setting a CEL. But now I am just guessing. This supports my theory that every household with more than one car should only have identical cars. Just for the purpose of swapping parts when you are really stumped. It worked well for me, back in the day, with slant six Valiants and Darts at my house.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #88
I didn't check if I had mentioned it in a previous post but the throttle body has been cleaned (twice)and the TPS and idle speed motor are both new. New TB gasket too. They weren't very expensive so I replaced those hoping they would make a difference but they didn't.

The O2 sensor(s) (they are the originals) are on my list of possible other things to change that aren't too expensive and I can do myself. However that list is getting shorter and shorter. While I have the wiper cowl and motor assembly off to get to the upstream sensor, I'm going to go ahead and change the PCV valve which hasn't been changed for about 4 years. And a new PCV hose at the same time. Probably get to all this in the next two weeks.

Thanks for your suggestions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,347 Posts
Hi jrb98291 , this may be going out on a limb here but since you've had almost everything else checked , has anyone checked to see if any steering components are touching anything while the van is in drive ? I remember on one of my old fords that the steering arm was hitting the exhaust manifold when the vehicle was in drive and stopped but not any other time . It's just a thought .
 
  • Like
Reactions: jrb98391

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #90
Actually the 2nd garage I took the van to, which was a transmission place, as soon as the owner did a test drive, he was sure that was the issue. But after having it for a day, then they thought it might be a motor/transmission mount. However all 4 had already been replaced. But I still haven't ruled this out as a possibility since the vibration so consistently happens as soon as you drop down below 800 rpm. And other than that the van runs great, shifts fine, good mpg, good power. It's been about a year now and 5K miles since the problem first started occurring and it hasn't become any worse or any better. If you have any ideas on how to determine whether part of the steering components are touching something, I'd be happy to try and check them out. Only thing I can't really do is be under the van looking for issues while it's in drive and the problem is occurring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #91
This could be one of my last posts on this, at least for the near future.

Last weekend I replaced the PCV value and the OE PCV hose plus the OE oxygen sensors. No effect on the vibration issue and I didn't really expect there to be any.

Then I decided to talk to the transmission place that rebuilt the tran on my 96 Caravan when it died about 10K after the warranty ran out. They offered to try and diagnose the issue at no charge. So I left it there for a few days and they of course could not find the cause. But they did state that in their professional opinion, it was not due to either the flex plate, torque converter or transmission. They said they would have recommended to have the mounts replaced if that had not already been done. They did say that it was possible that a new mount might be defective.Their advice, simliar to a couple of the other places I took the van, was to drive it until (or if) the problem becomes worse at which time it will be easier to identify.

So I've pretty much run out of parts to replace in an attempt to fix this although I'll still try and pursue any suggestions that may be posted in the future.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,244 Posts
This could be one of my last posts on this, at least for the near future.

Last weekend I replaced the PCV value and the OE PCV hose plus the OE oxygen sensors. No effect on the vibration issue and I didn't really expect there to be any.

Then I decided to talk to the transmission place that rebuilt the tran on my 96 Caravan when it died about 10K after the warranty ran out. They offered to try and diagnose the issue at no charge. So I left it there for a few days and they of course could not find the cause. But they did state that in their professional opinion, it was not due to either the flex plate, torque converter or transmission. They said they would have recommended to have the mounts replaced if that had not already been done. They did say that it was possible that a new mount might be defective.Their advice, simliar to a couple of the other places I took the van, was to drive it until (or if) the problem becomes worse at which time it will be easier to identify.

So I've pretty much run out of parts to replace in an attempt to fix this although I'll still try and pursue any suggestions that may be posted in the future.
Checking the engine mounts is easy and just requires two people. Check out this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8g7sEWrbi60
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #93
I'm bumping this somewhat older thread as I still have the issue and I wanted to see if anyone had any new suggestions as to the cause of the problem. It's been about 7,000 miles since the problem started and it's not gotten any worse or any better.

Just to summarize (and to avoid anyone having to look at all the old posts), my van has a vibration (felt mainly in the steering wheel but can be felt in other body areas also) when the van is stopped (say at a light) and in any of the drive gears. Other than that the van drives and runs great and has no other problems that I'm aware of.

It's been at the dealer, 2 private garages and 2 transmission shops. The transmission shops are positive it is not due to either the transmission, torque converter or flexplate. I won't list them here but all the diagnostic tests done by the dealer and others have revealed no issues. There are no codes displayed or any pending codes.

All 4 motor/transmssion mounts have been changed with no improvement (the mounts definitely needed to be replaced). The battery, plugs, wires, coil, PCV, EGR are all relatively new. Idles steady at about 600 RPM. Gets around 21 MPG in town, 28 MPG on the highway. Throttle body has been cleaned and IAC and TPS cleaned and tested as OK. Vibration occurs even with drive belt removed; flywheel does not appear to be out of balance.

I could list more details but to keep this post from getting too long I'll stop here and say thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
were OE or aftermarket mounts used?


I know ford focus's have this issue, the mounts get old and you end up with a bad vibration at idle, aftermarket mounts have limited effect on it, OE mounts from the dealer take care of it completely
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #95
They were aftermarket. If I replaced them again with OE ones I'd probably do all but the rear one myself. They were all pretty easy to do except for that one. Wasn't easy to reach all the bolts even with the wiper cowl removed. My only hesitation is the old ones were in such bad shape that I expected some improvement when I replaced all four but no improvement occurred.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
801 Posts
I don't remember seeing this thread before so I decided to read all 10 pages.
Did you say the vibration started before or after the power steering fluid was changed?
Has the PS reservoir been replaced? I didn't see any mention of this.
There has been some issues with the screen inside clogging up causing some vibration at the steering wheel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #97
I wish I could say exactly when the vibration started but I can't. The PS reservoir has been changed and the fluid has been replaced (with ATF+4). If I had to guess I would say the vibration started after the reservoir was replaced. Bought the reservoir from NAPA. Also had the front brake pads replaced around this same time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
801 Posts
Interesting problem, if the vibration is only present at a stop light in Drive, I'm thinking it's probably transmission related, but that gets expensive to investigate any further.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #99
Both transmission places I took it to insisted it was not transmission related (and they didn't charge anything either to look at it). The one place I took it too had rebuilt my 96 Caravan transmission after it died shortly after the warranty was expired. The other place thought it might be something rubbing against the frame or body but couldn't find anything when they looked.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Hi, hope someone will read this again after almost 3 years - have the same issue with vibes. I didnt solve it, but I think that aftermarket mounts are not good idea at this point. I've replaced old mounts 2 times in some other cars (with new but aftermarket), always back with used ones OEM. In this days, DEA or Anchor or any other mounts are cheap (few dollars) against 50-60 bucks for OEM ones.
I'm on your path now...replacing spark plugs, ignition leads, TB swap, etc. It's better but still not like its should be.
 
81 - 100 of 119 Posts
Top