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Discussion Starter #61
Latest update on this: took it into a shop this week and got it back this morning. This used something called a Motorvac Carbon Clean machine to clean the fuel and exhaust systems. They said a lot of "stuff" came out of the engine. Plus they said they adjusted the motor mounts (I guess the mounts have slots which allow for adjustments). They thought the vibration was better...., their bill was reasonable. They also said in their opinion the tranny was OK.

But when I drove the van home, I didn't notice much if any improvement. I'll drive it some more but I think whatever the cause of the vibration in "D" is, it's still there. Not sure what my next step is going to be. Maybe the van is just old :(
 

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Discussion Starter #63
At least they didn't charge me anything for the "adjustment" :)
 

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Latest update on this: took it into a shop this week and got it back this morning. This used something called a Motorvac Carbon Clean machine to clean the fuel and exhaust systems. They said a lot of "stuff" came out of the engine. Plus they said they adjusted the motor mounts (I guess the mounts have slots which allow for adjustments). They thought the vibration was better...., their bill was reasonable. They also said in their opinion the tranny was OK.

But when I drove the van home, I didn't notice much if any improvement. I'll drive it some more but I think whatever the cause of the vibration in "D" is, it's still there. Not sure what my next step is going to be. Maybe the van is just old :(
Sounds as if they just sprayed something into the air intake or added something to the fuel tank like "injector cleaner"! A very good dealer money maker that does nothing you can't do with a cheap can from walmart.
 

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I think that you and I are not too far from each other geographically. Perhaps we could arrange a meet-up some weekend and you could get another Forum members' first-hand opines as to what's going on?
 

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If were doing a meet up perhaps I would cross the Sound and join in!
 

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If were doing a meet up perhaps I would cross the Sound and join in!
A Kitsaper, perhaps, are you? Well, the more the merrier!
My Seattle "location" is a generalization. I'm closer to the Vashon ferry than the Bremerton ferry and I coached and call many games at Lincoln Park; the SeaTac departure route goes over my house when the Blue Angels are in for Seafair.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
I'm over in the Puget Sound "winery" area. Probably some BC'ers not too far away either.

Right now I have an appointment next week at the dealer for them to take a look, "diagnosis only". I'm going to write up a list of everything that's been checked out and/or replaced by either myself or the 3 prior places I've tried and give it to the tech who will be working on the van. Up to now, pretty much every suggestion that's been posted to this thread I've looked into and tentatively verified that they were not the cause of the issue. But a lot of the parts were worn and not very expensive so they were worth replacing IMO. And I've learned a lot.

Just one other note: the last place I took it to said that not only could the vibration be felt in the steering wheel but it could actually be felt on the body too.
 

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I'm over in the Puget Sound "winery" area. Probably some BC'ers not too far away either.
Huh, I was going from your username and thought you might be in the Lake Tapps region.

Keep the updates coming: the curiosity is getting to some of us as to what the cause actually is.
 

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I'm over in the Puget Sound "winery" area. Probably some BC'ers not too far away either.

Right now I have an appointment next week at the dealer for them to take a look, "diagnosis only". I'm going to write up a list of everything that's been checked out and/or replaced by either myself or the 3 prior places I've tried and give it to the tech who will be working on the van. Up to now, pretty much every suggestion that's been posted to this thread I've looked into and tentatively verified that they were not the cause of the issue. But a lot of the parts were worn and not very expensive so they were worth replacing IMO. And I've learned a lot.

Just one other note: the last place I took it to said that not only could the vibration be felt in the steering wheel but it could actually be felt on the body too.
Are you saying they can feel the vib but you can't??
 

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Discussion Starter #72
No. It was just when I demonstrated the problem to the last shop I took it to, the tech put his hand on the outside A pillar and mentioned he could feel it there also in addition to the steering wheel.

I've written up a description of the issue, when it started, who's looked at it, what's been done to try and resolve the issue and all other work done in the past 12-18 months on the vehicle not related to this issue. I plan to take the van into the dealer on Tuesday and give them a copy of this document.
 

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Thanks for this extensive trouble-shooting and we are all waiting to find the culprit, if it is ever found. As I mentioned many posts ago, my 2002 w/ 3.8L AWD does similar, but my only concern was if it indicates a problem that might strand us. My engine runs fine, it just gives a slight shaking in "D" at a stoplight, either warm or cold engine. I suspect it is a "natural frequency" (google that). Changing the idle rpm might eliminate it, but that is hard-wired in the computer. You can only go up from there, via the throttle pedal. Putting in "D" brings more rotating mass in the transmission into the equation, plus the effect of drive-shafts w/ rotational springiness of the tires. The later was mentioned many posts back re Suburu Outbacks. It could be as simple as having installed different tires. I currently have Yokohama Touring Avid S tires. Perhaps that is when my slight shaking began.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
So I got the van back from the dealer service department yesterday and they were able to reduce the amount of vibration but not eliminate it entirely. What they said they did was adjust the height of one of the front (i.e. side) engine mounts. They said the proper way to install this mount is to do it while the engine is started and the car is in drive. I know people have posted that the mounts are not adjustable but whatever they did did help. They advised it wasn't worth throwing any more money at the issue.

I think they did a good job looking into the issue. They checked the following:

Checked the exhaust system for touching the frame or any components
Verified there were no vacuum leaks
Checked the compression in all cylinders and they all looked good
Checked the spark plug gaps
Checked the harmonic balancer
Check steering gear and suspension
Checked torque on torque converter bolts and engine bolts
Checked all mounts
Reset the fuel adaptive (not quite sure what this is)

They did find oil leaks in both the oil pan gasket and lower intake manifold. I'm going to take care of those issues in the future.

So for now at least I think I'm done looking into the vibration issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Thought I'd bump this old thread to see if anyone had any fresh ideas as to what may be the cause. I'd had it to four different repair shops including the dealer and none of them could find the cause. I got tried of paying people to tell me they didn't know what's going on so I haven't taken it to anyone else since the last post. I did fix the oil leaks in the pan and lower intake manifold.

The problem hasn't gotten any worse nor any better since then. The van idles at about 600 rpm and if you keep your left foot on the brake pedal and then use your right to increase the rpm to around 800, the vibration goes away.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions as to what else can be done or looked at (if you read thru all the old posts you'll see that lots of things have been checked out and many parts replaced).
 

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Have you checked the engine mounts? There are four of them.
 

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Does your van have an EGR valve? I dont think this thread has mentioned it. I just replaced mine and solved pretty similar symptoms. I had no CEL, good vacuum reading, good mpg and performance, except bad idle, in drive, with body vibration. I didnt know how to test for leaking exhaust through the valve at idle, so I gambled on it, and got lucky. This after replacing some other ignition parts, but the car is smooth as silk now. Hope this helps. You've got to be really frustrated with this problem.

2001 Voyager LX 3.3, 172,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
In reply to "itsallgood" post, all four mounts were replaced. 3 of them definitely needed replacing but that did not help with the issue.

In reply to "TCVoyager", I replaced the EGR valve maybe 4-5 years ago after getting various check engine codes related to the valve. Replacing it cleared up these codes and they haven't come back. I was not having any vibration issues at that time. But I'll seriously consider replacing it again based on your suggestion. I've replaced just about every other ignition related part and sensor. What brand EGR valve did you purchase?

Thanks to both for your suggestions.
 

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I replaced with a Borg Warner from OReilly Auto Parts. It says BWD1577 on the box. Interesting that you have replaced it once already. Seems there are several ways an EGR can fail. Your first one set codes, probably because an electrical fault was detected, such as failing to open the valve at rpm above idle. With my old one, I suspect it was opening and closing properly, but carbon buildup prevented it from closing fully. And just enough exhaust getting into the manifold to affect idle, but not enough to set a CEL from O2 sensors detecting a bad mixture. Thats my theory anyway. I'll bet you dont still have the one you took off the car. If you do, separate the two pieces connected by the rubber hoses. Use your existing electrical servo section, and replace the part that connects to the manifold. Maybe you will get lucky.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
You win your bet as to my still having the old part. I do usually save old parts for a while but generally toss them out after a few months.

I don't know what year your van is or what engine it has but the BWD1577 is not an EGR valve that fits my van. The EGR for my van would be like the Standard Motor Products EGV830 EGR Valve.
 
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