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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2001 T&C limited 3.8
Wife was driving home form work, on the freeway, took the off ramp, and when she stopped at the light, the car died.
She had it towed home, and the next day I went out to check it, the motor would start, but as soon it was put in any gear it died.
OBDII scan kept giving me different codes every time I cleared it. I don't know if its the transmission or the torque converter. I read online of a way to bypass and fool the
control module to lock and unlock the TC with some relays and a switch, but it was for a RAM. Anyway to find out if it's the tranny or converter?
 

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Does that van have EGR? - that would be my prime suspect...
You can force 41TE into "limp home" mode by pulling ATX relay / fuse or disconnecting the solenoid pack, but what makes you think there's anything wrong with the trans or TC?
Does it start and run in Neutral? If it does, can you give it slight gas (stay at or below 1,000 rpm) and bump it into drive - Be sure to set the Parking brake and depress the brake pedal - does it stay running while throttle is partially open?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does that van have EGR? - that would be my prime suspect...
You can force 41TE into "limp home" mode by pulling ATX relay / fuse or disconnecting the solenoid pack, but what makes you think there's anything wrong with the trans or TC?
Does it start and run in Neutral? If it does, can you give it slight gas (stay at or below 1,000 rpm) and bump it into drive - Be sure to set the Parking brake and depress the brake pedal - does it stay running while throttle is partially open?
Engine runs great from idle to 3000, but as soon as I put in gear at any rpm it dies. haven;t pulled the relay yet, will check.
 

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Again, does it stay running with transmission in neutral?

If it stays running in Park and Neutral and dies in other gears, then it's transmission related. If no difference, then it's engine/emissions/electronic issue.

Last summer Baron was exiting a freeway, decelerating on the off ramp when his transmission suddenly went. No external signs of failure, but it was done. Sounds like a similar scenario. In this case, it locked something up so the engine won't stay running. So the worst thing to expect is, you need a new transmission. We can still hope for the best though.
 
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3rd Gen Plebeian
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager Rallye
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60858

Source: Chrysler 2001 RG/RS Factory Service Manual; property of DaimlerChrysler Corporation
 

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fix it if you can
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Engine runs great from idle to 3000, but as soon as I put in gear at any rpm it dies. haven;t pulled the relay yet, will check.
Does it just die out or jumps on the mounts shaking the whole van?

What's the current odometer reading? (mileage)

You mentioned that it had a bunch of seemingly random codes, has this van ever had the fuel injector wiring harness examined for and protected from melting? (It's a well known issue on vans of this vintage)
 

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3rd Gen Plebeian
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager Rallye
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Caution: Both wheels must turn at the same speed.

Definitely do not only suspend one wheel if you have traction control. You will also generate ABS codes and illuminate the ABS light with only one wheel suspended.



60862

60863



60864

Source:
2001 Chrysler RG/RS Factory Service Manual; Property of DaimlerChrysler Corporation
 
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fix it if you can
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LEVY didn't say you should spin the one wheel at 50mph :)
The test they (marvin & LEVY) describe is meant to test if the torque converter failed catastrophically and seized the 'fan' blades - it's only meant to be done while idling, not giving it much gas...

FWIW, I'm not convinced there's anything wrong with the TC or trans, it stalled after coming to a stop - if it had stalled while slowing down before coming to a stop TC failure could be suspected.
when she stopped at the light, the car died.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm back.
Had an argument with my body, and I lost, Twice! Better now, just a little shaky now and then.
OK, I jacked up the van's front wheels and put it in drive; died. started in neutral, put it in drive; died. no matter what RPM. Removed the EATX relay and it spun the wheels. Limp mode works, right?
Can I use the 300 psi cylinder pressure gauge I have, or do I need the C-3293SP in particular. Is there a special adapter or is standard metric thread. What size?
I can only do this in short spurts, so I kinda need as much info as possible before I start.
P.S. are those transmission bolts(plugs, whatever) on the front ,rear, or side of the transmission?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
For this test, just one front wheel off the ground should be enough.
I'm back.
Had an argument with my body, and I lost, Twice! Better now, just a little shaky now and then.
OK, I jacked up the van's front wheels and put it in drive; died. started in neutral, put it in drive; died. no matter what RPM. Removed the EATX relay and it spun the wheels. Limp mode works, right?
Can I use the 300 psi cylinder pressure gauge I have, or do I need the C-3293SP in particular. Is there a special adapter or is standard metric thread. What size?
I can only do this in short spurts, so I kinda need as much info as possible before I start.
P.S. are those transmission bolts(plugs, whatever) on the front ,rear, or side of the transmission?
 

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I jacked up the van's front wheels and put it in drive; died. started in neutral, put it in drive; died. no matter what RPM. Removed the EATX relay and it spun the wheels. Limp mode works, right?
Limp mode is second gear, IIRC low / reverse accumulator circuit is what's also used to lock up torque converter.
IDK, it could be solenoid or valve body problem but personally, I'd check wiring first (it could be shortig something out when it activates the solenoid pack).

With front wheels up, engine off, can you turn the wheels in neutral?
You can spin them just as well in Park (they'll turn in opposing directions though)
 
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