The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner
261 - 280 of 321 Posts
Put the new assembly in the van. The hose lengths were great. The instructions were perfect. The hose that needed to be trimmed was over twice as long as it needs to be, but since it was the shortest hose, it wasn't a huge waste of material, and probably just right to meet everyone's needs.

Quick recap: I pulled the old hoses and "Y" out. Put the new long hoses and "Y" in place. Cut the last hose to fit. Put last hose in place. Then I tightened all the hose clamps down. See images.

Thanks, gzukoff, for thinking through everything and putting together a kit that is easy to install and solves a big problem that many seem to be having with these vans.
 

Attachments

The plastic will last a few months as Cuda posted a video on Youtube, it was around 8-12 months before it broke and he went with a brass PEX. Its about $3.50 for the TEE but the problem with brass or copper is the TEE turns green and cruddy and the corrosion creeps to the clamps. It's galvanic corrosion due to the dissimilar metals with the coolant acting as an electrolyte. We argued in this thread back and forth until I saw it for myself on a repair I did, it took about a year for it to turn cruddy looking. There are other metal TEEs that work far better in this application and they do not turn green, Dorman makes a steel tee for about 10 bucks each and there is an aluminum 5/8 TEE I sell on eBay, the aluminum TEE alloy is very close to the radiator and tubing alloy so galvanic corrosion hasn't been seen after 24 months.
The problem with brass and copper is, yes it will turn green, but that is not the problem. The problem is, it would also damage the radiator, radiator will suddenly develop leaks due to galvanic corrosion.
 
I noticed the coolant level in the overflow tank was low, and I could smell coolant when I was under the hood. No drips on the garage floor or dried up coolant trails anywhere. I ran my hand around the Y tube and felt coolant there. We had ours replaced at the dealer several years ago after it burst driving down the road. I ordered gzukoff's part and will be installing it on Friday.
 
Ok, here is the "y" fitting with the hoses removed for clarity......

View attachment 4618

If you remove the hose "plastic crimp" this is what you have. as you can see, it's just a standard fitting with the plastic crimp removed. The crimp is a hot set clamp that is quick to assemble and much less expensive than the labor required for two hose clamps.....
Dorman Part 626-307HP is now using aluminum instead of plastic. Available at most auto parts store same day - so if you need it right away, they probably have it......

http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=80507&SEName=626-307hp

"Supply and Return, w/Auxiliary Heater, Includes Aluminum Y-Pipe"
 
Dorman Part 626-307HP is now using aluminum instead of plastic. Available at most auto parts store same day - so if you need it right away, they probably have it......
The Dorman w/ aluminum is only with the part number containing suffix "HP". Dorman still sells the plastic Ys w/ same part number minus the "HP". It's about $55-60 at Rock Auto, and it comes with both Y-tube fittings with hoses, etc. It's probably twice that price at local brick & mortar auto parts stores.

I put the Dorman in mine 8 or 9 months ago. But I will say that if you don't need it immediately, buy the one sold in this thread by ebayer newyorkbuyer. See links in post #257 of this thread. The Dorman works well enough, but it isn't 5-star quality. One of the hose clamps was broken in the box of the one I received. The hose clamps overall seemed flimsy, so upgraded with some heavier duty ones bought at Ace or Home Depot. And even the plastic hoses weren't cut very well and had to take a box cutter to fully cut the hose openings clean. Seems like typical Dorman quality. But again, i would buy the aluminum tube kit sold in this thread if I had it to do over again.
 
Last week I pulled up at a T junction. One large puff of smoke came out from under the hood. Drove another 5 miles or so to home, opened the hood, couldn't see any reason for the smoke. A few days later, drove to and parked outside a friends house, lots of smoke coming out from the hood. Now I could see the leak at the Y pipe, dripping onto the manifold heat shield.

Cut out the old Y pipe, bought a metal 3/4" T and 5/8" hose and clamps, and one hour repair later, the problem is all fixed for about $15. I had Zerex G05 antifreeze on hand, just topped up with a 50/50 water mix, done. Thanks for this thread, and the many youtube videos.
 
Last week I pulled up at a T junction. One large puff of smoke came out from under the hood. Drove another 5 miles or so to home, opened the hood, couldn't see any reason for the smoke. A few days later, drove to and parked outside a friends house, lots of smoke coming out from the hood. Now I could see the leak at the Y pipe, dripping onto the manifold heat shield.

Cut out the old Y pipe, bought a metal 3/4" T and 5/8" hose and clamps, and one hour repair later, the problem is all fixed for about $15. I had Zerex G05 antifreeze on hand, just topped up with a 50/50 water mix, done. Thanks for this thread, and the many youtube videos.
Problem is, if that "metal" T is not aluminum, be prepared to eventually replace radiator and heather core.

Cheap is not always the very best option.
 
Problem is, if that "metal" T is not aluminum, be prepared to eventually replace radiator and heather core.

Cheap is not always the very best option.

No worries mate. Safe for all metals, even aluminum.

G05: " Its lower-silicate, reduced pH, phosphate free European technology protects all cooling system metals, including aluminum, from corrosion".
 
No worries mate. Safe for all metals, even aluminum.

G05: " Its lower-silicate, reduced pH, phosphate free European technology protects all cooling system metals, including aluminum, from corrosion".
Seems like you don't understand what the problem is.

You can't use some metals like brass or copper in the cooling system because galvanic corrosion will occur. The brass "T" may corrode but, radiator core is a lot thinner and will develop a leak way faster than the brass "T". A electrical current will flow between the two dissimilar metal causing corrosion on both metals, radiator and heather core being the weakest.
 
HEY GUYS AND GALS,

Thanks for the write-ups, eBay purchases and feedback and such, I wanted to address a few points from above.
(I can't believe this thread is still going on 5 years later :) )


The plastic Y sucks, I think we can all agree upon that, there is no doubt this was a bad design. The Mopar engineering dept. is apparently full of slow learners (or has no power over the accounting department) as they were using plastic in the cooling system until 2014, it is really poor engineering for minimal profit.

Galvanic corrosion happens but I'm not 100% sure if the galvanic corrosion is the cause of premature radiator failures but why risk a $200 dollar radiator to save a dollar or two. Seriously, it's only a dollar or two, I sell pairs of aluminum Tees on ebay for slightly more than the brass tees at HD or Lowes.

The "crusties" I described on the brass was me trying to be simplistic in my definition, is in actuality aluminum (sort of). The cooling system becomes a battery with the brass tee becoming the cathode stealing electrons from aluminum components. I can't recall back to HS chem to do the chemical equation to give the exactly chemical formula but if you're interested google is the place to start. This is regardless of the coolant used, just Google "copper aluminum battery" and videos of simple copper/aluminum batteries made with just salt water.

I started selling the welded Y tubes a little over 2 years ago as a repair solution for the leaking front Y. I certainly do not intend to compete with Fiat-Chrysler with their 5.7 billion in profit or Dormans 40 million in yearly sales :) , if I figure out what I really make on an hourly basis its probably about 73 cents an hour. If there are any marketing people out there that can help me boost sales send me off a message.

I added cast aluminum tees and a cast Y repair kit to my product line on eBay as a more cost effective REPAIR. If the rubber hose is still good, these are repairs that will be as close to permanent as anything else and you'll save close to 50.00 if you decide to use the cast Tees. I know its not a huge savings but I am fully aware that when you've got a high mileage, older vehicle you really dont want to throw money into it.

As a side note, these vans are close to 10 years old, if you are trying to reuse 10-year-old hoses you are asking for leaks and a failure, replace the rubber hoses! The tubing and hose are 5/8" (16mm), you could make up an assembly that does the same with just straight bulk heater hose and Tees, I've done it and it's been done by members here who have emailed me photos. If you want to get really fancy you can use molded hose, I made up a set using hose intended for 2001 T&C and straight hose. The straight hose is made in coils and has a wide radius 90 degree bend to it.

This group collectively spend countless hours searching for solutions, thankfully Dorman picked up the ball and now produces a replacement hose set with aluminum. I havent purchased one to see the quality but as described by another member, it is typical Dorman quality.

Sorry for my wordiness, I guess I've had too much time lapse since responding (and maybe too much coffee this A.M)

Thanks again all, I really appreciate the responses and feedback.
 
Put the new assembly in the van. The hose lengths were great. The instructions were perfect. The hose that needed to be trimmed was over twice as long as it needs to be, but since it was the shortest hose, it wasn't a huge waste of material, and probably just right to meet everyone's needs.

Quick recap: I pulled the old hoses and "Y" out. Put the new long hoses and "Y" in place. Cut the last hose to fit. Put last hose in place. Then I tightened all the hose clamps down. See images.

Thanks, gzukoff, for thinking through everything and putting together a kit that is easy to install and solves a big problem that many seem to be having with these vans.


I wanted to make a clarification.

This is a lost cost option to the Dorman product if the hose needs to be replaced and uses GATES 19513 molded hose which is less than 8.00 from Rockauto sent first class mail. It's for the van without the rear heat option and you just splicing in Y (or TEE) and use a straight hose to branch to the rear line, I believe its a 12-14 inch long piece.

For the rear line you'd use a 90 degree hose from the heater outlet to the engine then splice into that and hook up the rear line with a Y (or TEE).

For more cost cutting use GATES 19512 which has 2 right angles, cut in the middle and then a straight hose to the lower tube.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Milkman
Ok so i got the piece removed. And i'm not sure if it was a mechanic or what that did this but the stuff i see online and the way things are normally supposed to be set with these parts seem to differ from this town and country. case in point, normally i would squeeze in the tabs and either pull straight up/out or twist and pull as everyone else shows it to be done..but no, that particular piece was a slide to lock position. So i mashed it up and stretched it to get it off and once i got it off i looked at it to see how it was done and the plastic piece inside just needed to slide in a different direction from the plastic outside and it would of came up...but on to a new chapter. Here are pics of the aftermath and also found the spot of the normal leaking area that everyone normally has an issue with..So with the piece that i took the metal clip from, should i get another metal piece just to connect the hose back to the metal pipe? Or would it be better to get a metal adapter that has 3 sides that can mimic the y shape almost. Also the Y fitting in the second picture is a close up of the one that attached to the metal pipe. The 3rd pic shows the y fitting on the left which is the one right next to the engine coolant temp sensor that's connected to that small box next to the engine. I found theres coolant leaking from there as you see the drips on that pipe there.
 

Attachments

Two years ago, when we bought our 2009 T&C, the front y-pipe started leaking. I found this forum and there was a discussion about using a 3/4"PEX brass tee. I got one from Home Depot and put it in. Now, 60K miles later, the rear plastic Y-pipe is leaking slowly. I was going to use another brass PEX tee, but after seeing this thread I am going to buy two aluminum Y-pipes from gzukoff on ebay and replace the 2-year-old brass tee along with the leaking plastic one.

Steve
 
I wanted to follow up on the Dorman quality. Since the Dorman aluminum kit included both Y-connectors, I had replaced both of them originally around October 2016 when one of the OE plastic Y-connectors cracked and leaked. In Nov. 2017 (approx 15k miles later), the Dorman had leaks in the small front hose at the clamp. Replaced that hose and clamp. By January 2018 it sprung another leak in one of the rear hoses. Replaced clamp and the leak is smaller but not sealed, so the hose is bad too. While the Dorman aluminum Y-connector has held up, the hoses and clamps on the Dorman kit are crap.

I'm gonna have all 6 hoses and all clamps replaced with Gates green-stripe hose and some plumber's-quality heavy duty hose clamps and get this fixed once and for all.

Another vote for the one sold here by user gzukoff (ebayer newyorkbuyer).

The Dorman w/ aluminum is only with the part number containing suffix "HP" (Part 626-307HP). Dorman still sells the plastic Ys w/ same part number minus the "HP". It's about $55-60 at Rock Auto, and it comes with both Y-tube fittings with hoses, etc. It's probably twice that price at local brick & mortar auto parts stores.

I put the Dorman in mine 8 or 9 months ago. But I will say that if you don't need it immediately, buy the one sold in this thread by ebayer newyorkbuyer. See links in post #257 of this thread. The Dorman works well enough, but it isn't 5-star quality. One of the hose clamps was broken in the box of the one I received. The hose clamps overall seemed flimsy, so upgraded with some heavier duty ones bought at Ace or Home Depot. And even the plastic hoses weren't cut very well and had to take a box cutter to fully cut the hose openings clean. Seems like typical Dorman quality. But again, i would buy the aluminum tube kit sold in this thread if I had it to do over again.
 
Had the same issue on several vehicles. The most recent one was when I was headed to the airport to catch a flight. You can purchase the pipe and take off the "Y" adapter section and replace it yourself. Very easy and cheaper than sending the car in. You can also google the issue and replace the "Y" with metal parts from your local hardware. This is a common problem,
 
Don’t fool around with the plastic and fix it once and for all. Go to a Big Box hardware store and buy a bronze T fitting, [I don’t remember the size so measure the plastic piece] and three screw driven clamps. You may need a short length of hose so a trip to a auto parts house may also be required. Replace the plastic piece with the bronze T and you can forget about leaks for as long as you own the car. 2008 16K miles.
 
Don’t fool around with the plastic and fix it once and for all. Go to a Big Box hardware store and buy a bronze T fitting, [I don’t remember the size so measure the plastic piece] and three screw driven clamps. You may need a short length of hose so a trip to a auto parts house may also be required. Replace the plastic piece with the bronze T and you can forget about leaks for as long as you own the car. 2008 16K miles.
Plastic sucks, that's why this thread has been going on for years. I don't want to regurgitate the whole long thread on galvanic corrosion if using the brass PEX fitting (it's 3/4" btw), it ends up creeping up to the clamps and turns them cruddy and they will fail due to corrosion, go back ten or so pages and read up on the whole long discussion. I am not trying to sell anything, just passing along the experiences.
 
After reading some of these posts I went out and checked my 2010 GC. Both Y's were cast aluminum with geared hose clamps so sometime in the past a previous owner had this problem. Thanks to everyone for these posts.
 
As far as the fittings, if they are the Dorman replacements there are barbs on the fitting which cut into the hose and over time there will be seepage. If they look like any of the ones below, they should be fine for the life of the van.

Metal Tool accessory Steel Cylinder


Metal
 
261 - 280 of 321 Posts
Top