The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

21 - 33 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,924 Posts
First, I thought this string was dead, and I hoped it was.

Second, and hopefully, the mobility van people work with the Chrysler engineers to insure that what they do to a van will not cause it to become unstable in a high speed accident.

Third and finally, because bad things don't happen very often doesn't mean they won't happen. When a vehicle is designed, it is tested under all types of conditions. As has been said, do whatever you want to your vans, and just remember meteors only really strike the earth every few billions of years.
 

·
Drivin' Maniac
2002 Grand Caravan ES 3.8L
Joined
·
1,985 Posts
A neighbor has a Braun conversion (Gen5) and that thing really sits low in the back.

that's all I know...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
706 Posts
2” lift on the front on brand new OE mopar struts, new tie rods, new control arms, silicone boots, hd bushings, hd swaybar bushings, new Ford windstar swaybar endlinks to compensate for front lift (shorter) 225 AT+Ms 28.4” tires, and 1” spacers. Rear will be lifted with new spring shackles via Tacoma. Just as stable in corners as stock, in fact, more stable than stock mainly from the 225s, 2” wider track, and Rancho 9000xl 19 way adjustable dampening rear shocks set to max stiffness which stop pretty much all body roll. If you wanna lift your van, lift it. If you’re worried about “stability”, widen the track and run wider rubber. Don’t however, listen to conspiracies not based in any semblance of reality. You know what’s not safe? 20 yr old balljoints, wobbling tie rods, paper thin rotors and pads, bald tires and blown shocks that some of y’all run.

4” deep sand? No stability on the freeway? Don’t make me laugh.
60886
ADDA6EA8-DB32-446E-8DC3-2616F3210105.jpeg
1BF31DDB-3BAB-4777-8AB0-380722FCF3F9.jpeg
078EB977-EB35-47A6-ACD4-149BD63BB30D.jpeg
7B1EC9A1-F029-425F-978F-98BAB829DC3D.jpeg
60885

60887
 

·
3rd Gen Plebeian
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager Rallye
Joined
·
824 Posts
We need to meet up for a side by side with my 2" dropped van and your 2" lifted van. I feel like I'm eye level with people in cars. I have to back into spots until the trailer hitch hits the curb, the front bumper isn't tall enough to clear curbs or those concrete slabs they put at the front of parking spots. Ive already beached mine on a speed bump and several driveways.
60888

60889



Nobody gave us shit for dropping Chrysler Minivans or swapping the 4th gen suspension/brakes on. The stock suspension is a compromise designed to appeal to the average driver, there are benefits and drawbacks to both lifted and lowered suspensions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
706 Posts
We need to meet up for a side by side with my 2" dropped van and your 2" lifted van. I feel like I'm eye level with people in cars. I have to back into spots until the trailer hitch hits the curb, the front bumper isn't tall enough to clear curbs or those concrete slabs they put at the front of parking spots. Ive already beached mine on a speed bump and several driveways. View attachment 60888
View attachment 60889


Nobody gave us shit for dropping Chrysler Minivans or swapping the 4th gen suspension/brakes on. The stock suspension is a compromise designed to appeal to the average driver, there are benefits and drawbacks to both lifted and lowered suspensions.
nice drop!! More pics? The eibach shackle mounts, what are they off? Peaked my interest, I might just replace both the front and rear spring shackle mounts and call it a day.

Stock suspension is just that, stock. That’s like saying 215s are vastly superior to 225s because they are stock. By that logic, most people should be chastised for running helper springs, because because basic $25 “shocks” that don’t have the dampening ability on a 4000lb vehicle are stock. Its just hilarious to read some of the comments imo.

I am going to raise the front more when I drop the front subframe, prop shaft and rear diff.

Probably 3.5” lift later. Mercedes R350 front swaybar endlinks needed for that height. Meet up would def be cool.

I didn’t want to slam since I already own low cars, this is my stealth camper so I wanted to be able to drive far off the road and...camp. I haven’t done bodywork mods yet but they are coming. I was focused on rebuilding everything mechanical. Prior to lifting, but a little preview of what is coming. (Have all the mounting points figured out, just have to make some 1/4” thick L brackets as the Tacoma ones that came with the bar are just too short)(New bumper cover with round led projector fogs coming soon too)
60890
 

·
3rd Gen Plebeian
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager Rallye
Joined
·
824 Posts
nice drop!! More pics? The eibach shackle mounts, what are they off? Peaked my interest, I might just replace both the front and rear spring shackle mounts and call it a day.

I am going to raise the front more when I drop the front subframe, prop shaft and rear diff.

Probably 3.5” lift later. Mercedes R350 front swaybar endlinks needed for that height. Meet up would def be cool.

I didn’t want to slam since I already own low cars, this is my stealth camper so I wanted to be able to drive far off the road and...camp. I haven’t done bodywork mods yet but they are coming. I was focused on rebuilding everything mechanical. Prior to lifting, but a little preview of what is coming. (Have all the mounting points figured out, just have to make some 1/4” thick L brackets as the Tacoma ones that came with the bar are just too short)(New bumper cover with round led projector fogs coming soon too)
60891

You can just about make drop or lift shackles and hangers with hand tools. The hangers would be the hard part, since it's a larger piece of metal and has those creases formed into the base/sides to give it rigidity.
These are the Eibach Pro drop kit for the 3rd gen.
You have to hammer the pins/studs out of the old shackles and press them into the new shackle.

It would be easy-pz for a machine shop to craft some, or if you're daring you could make them with a bench top vice, a hammer, and a power drill.


I've got bodywork next too.
I did the interior > replaced damaged body parts > wheels and tires > suspension and brakes > transmission. Next is the engine, I gotta do something crafty and original.
Body work, besides paint and dents I think I want to mould a fiberglass front bumper, nothing fancy maybe just a slightly bigger opening on the bottom and a hint of a lip/splitter. I don't want it to look ridiculous. I also want to craft some kind of roll pan/diffuser for the rear, the energy absorbing bumper is useless back there since it is so low.



I noticed that the 3rd gen and 4th gen transmission mounts, while interchangeable, had the hole through the middle at different heights. I can't remember which one was lower, but they would result in the transmission sitting an inch higher or lower. Might be possible to lower your drivetrain through the mounts alone to bring the CV Axles in line. Also, the Pacifica has the driveshaft exit the PTU higher up, if you lower the drivetrain from the chassis. Not sure how much but it might be worthwhile to investigate. I think @Road Ripper might know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
706 Posts
View attachment 60891
You can just about make drop or lift shackles and hangers with hand tools. The hangers would be the hard part, since it's a larger piece of metal and has those creases formed into the base/sides to give it rigidity.
These are the Eibach Pro drop kit for the 3rd gen.
You have to hammer the pins/studs out of the old shackles and press them into the new shackle.

It would be easy-pz for a machine shop to craft some, or if you're daring you could make them with a bench top vice, a hammer, and a power drill.


I've got bodywork next too.
I did the interior > replaced damaged body parts > wheels and tires > suspension and brakes > transmission. Next is the engine, I gotta do something crafty and original.
Body work, besides paint and dents I think I want to mould a fiberglass front bumper, nothing fancy maybe just a slightly bigger opening on the bottom and a hint of a lip/splitter. I don't want it to look ridiculous. I also want to craft some kind of roll pan/diffuser for the rear, the energy absorbing bumper is useless back there since it is so low.



I noticed that the 3rd gen and 4th gen transmission mounts, while interchangeable, had the hole through the middle at different heights. I can't remember which one was lower, but they would result in the transmission sitting an inch higher or lower. Might be possible to lower your drivetrain through the mounts alone to bring the CV Axles in line. Also, the Pacifica has the driveshaft exit the PTU higher up, if you lower the drivetrain from the chassis. Not sure how much but it might be worthwhile to investigate. I think @Road Ripper might know.
awesome thanks! 4th gen are def different than 3rd gen, that being said, seems like the spring hangers out of a tacoma are very close and similar.

Just have to figure out something for the front spring mounts that hold the bushing. I guess a spacer between the mount and body, and longer bolts with the same torque ratings would suffice, but it would be infinitely easier to just find a bracket that could bolt in or be redrilled and modded to bolt in. The rear shackles however, definitely Tacoma. They look so damn close, probably will fit with zero bending and modding.
 

·
3rd Gen Plebeian
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager Rallye
Joined
·
824 Posts
awesome thanks! 4th gen are def different than 3rd gen, that being said, seems like the spring hangers out of a tacoma are very close and similar.

Just have to figure out something for the front spring mounts that hold the bushing. I guess a spacer between the mount and body, and longer bolts with the same torque ratings would suffice, but it would be infinitely easier to just find a bracket that could bolt in or be redrilled and modded to bolt in. The rear shackles however, definitely Tacoma. They look so damn close, probably will fit with zero bending and modding.
Oh yeah, I forgot about that!
When I put the Eibach kit in, the thought had occured to me that one could simply get a block of 1-2" thick aluminum or steel, drill the holes out, and bolt it sandwiched between the hanger/shackle mounts and the body with longer bolts. There are actually 6-8 prethreaded holes in the frame. For some reason Chrysler expected the need to bolt them forward or aft a few inches, you could even use the extra holes to run more bolts through your block if you had qualms about its rigidity.

The hangers bolt to the frame with 4 bolts, and the shackles bolt to a bracket that mount to the frame with four bolts each.

Probably a lot easier than messing with the geometry of the spring by making custom hangers/shackles. I'd probably make it out of the polyurethane/plastic blocks we use for forklifts, rather than jackstands we have 20k-40,000lb rated 2"×4" blocks and 6"×8" blocks, those would be easy to machine and probably provide some harmonic dampening.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
706 Posts
Oh yeah, I forgot about that!
When I put the Eibach kit in, the thought had occured to me that one could simply get a block of 1-2" thick aluminum or steel, drill the holes out, and bolt it sandwiched between the hanger/shackle mounts and the body with longer bolts. There are actually 6-8 prethreaded holes in the frame. For some reason Chrysler expected the need to bolt them forward or aft a few inches, you could even use the extra holes to run more bolts through your block if you had qualms about its rigidity.

The hangers bolt to the frame with 4 bolts, and the shackles bolt to a bracket that mount to the frame with four bolts each.

Probably a lot easier than messing with the geometry of the spring by making custom hangers/shackles. I'd probably make it out of the polyurethane/plastic blocks we use for forklifts, rather than jackstands we have 20k-40,000lb rated 2"×4" blocks and 6"×8" blocks, those would be easy to machine and probably provide some harmonic dampening.
I stayed up and did some digging. Ford F-250 blocks sandwiched between the spring and axle with longer bolts will work. That’s the route I am going to take. Easy.

you’re right, no sense messing with the shackle and mount. Just going to change the bushings And done.
 

·
3rd gen > all others
Joined
·
3,139 Posts
You can't simply put lift blocks between the rear axle and leaf springs on these vans, because the CV shaft has to go through there. Remember the end of the beam axle with the big hole/flange for the rear hub? That will move down with the rear beam and take the axle into contact with the top of the leaf spring.

I robbed some add-a-leafs from a lifted Ford F-150 in the junkyard to add in someday, along with my half-leaf helpers I already have. Maybe I will have to remove the half-leafs. Then it will be spacers between the forward spring mounts and brackets, and rear shackle mounts and body (unless the Tacoma shackles work). Are the Tacoma shackles braced to each other, as the van's are bolted together? I believe it has to be done because there is no panhard bar on AWD rear axle beams to locate it.

Love the pics, and especially the flex shot! These vans CAN be capable when built right.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Special Edy

·
Registered
Joined
·
706 Posts
You can't simply put lift blocks between the rear axle and leaf springs on these vans, because the CV shaft has to go through there. Remember the end of the beam axle with the big hole/flange for the rear hub? That will move down with the rear beam and take the axle into contact with the top of the leaf spring.

I robbed some add-a-leafs from a lifted Ford F-150 in the junkyard to add in someday, along with my half-leaf helpers I already have. Maybe I will have to remove the half-leafs. Then it will be spacers between the forward spring mounts and brackets, and rear shackle mounts and body (unless the Tacoma shackles work). Are the Tacoma shackles braced to each other, as the van's are bolted together? I believe it has to be done because there is no panhard bar on AWD rear axle beams to locate it.

Love the pics, and especially the flex shot! These vans CAN be capable when built right.
Dan, you are absolutely right. I didn't think of the CVs interfering (derp). The Tacoma shackles are unbraced as well. I think spacers between the shackle mounts and forward mount with longer bolts will be the way to go. This way, both sides will get equal spacing and it won't throw anything off. Good call.

My new shocks are already 1.3" longer than stock on full extension, So that has been compensated for on full flex. I currently don't have bump stops because they fell off and because those Rancho shocks made them useless, except loaded down. I am gonna mount poly bump stops which will limit suspension flex travel anyways.

Good call, I am travelling right now, van is hardparked, and I got so excited with the spacing blocks, i forgot about the CVs.
 

·
3rd gen > all others
Joined
·
3,139 Posts
I was looking in the junkyard at Toyota T100 and Tacoma rear shackles to see if they were longer. They measure about 5" eye to eye. Then when I left, I measured the stock van rear shackles - about the same. So stock shackles would be a downgrade, because they lack bracing between the two parts of the shackle.

I just looked online for aftermarket shackles for the Tacoma. I found one on ebay that looks decent. With lifting using a shackle, you only get half of the advertised lift (by itself). It could be a nice option to fine-tune the rear height when combined with other means.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
706 Posts
I was looking in the junkyard at Toyota T100 and Tacoma rear shackles to see if they were longer. They measure about 5" eye to eye. Then when I left, I measured the stock van rear shackles - about the same. So stock shackles would be a downgrade, because they lack bracing between the two parts of the shackle.

I just looked online for aftermarket shackles for the Tacoma. I found one on ebay that looks decent. With lifting using a shackle, you only get half of the advertised lift (by itself). It could be a nice option to fine-tune the rear height when combined with other means.

That was my line of thinking (since I thought the awd weren't bolted together either) but have since abandoned it because the spacing on that tacoma hanger definitely will not fit the DGC bracket or spring. Once you mentioned they are bolted together, that idea when out the window
 
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
Top