Not sure if the Magnefine did much, but it certainly gave me peace of mind. I did open it up by unscrewing the cap, and if I remember, it had some of they typical metallic paste on the magnet, but nothing in the pleats of the filter. I cleaned it up, screwed it back together and put it back into service.
I had my torque converter replaced by a local shop. In at least three conversations I had with the shop before and during the repair I specified NOTHING but ATF+4. The guy agreed to use ATF+4, but when I got my bill, it had written in it, "Amsoil Signature Series ATF". Although I was not impressed, I experienced no issues with it. I did sell it though probably a year or more after that.
I'm not sure what originally caused the torque converter failure, but it may have started after Canadian Tire did a flush. They used a universal ATF, failed to properly seal the pan and all the fluid leaked out on my mother-in-laws driveway. They towed it back to CT and sealed the pan, and likely filled it with the same non approved fluid. Not knowing at the time about the requirement for ATF+4, I probably drove it for some time before becoming aware of the requirement. In fact, the first change I did myself, I was provided with a multivehicle ATF by the store. So, the poor van had run for quite some time on the wrong ATF. Once I got wise, I did several changes with ATF+4 over my ownership, but it's likely the damage was already done.
This started as an oil change interval thread and migrated to transmission fluid concerns.
1) I "always heard" that transmission filters were just rock catchers. By "rocks" I think they mean 200 microns or larger.
2) The ease of changing an external filter allowed vehicle owners to avoid clogged filters. How diligently Joe Average maintains such a filter is open for discussion.
3) I also heard that pressures in transmission cooling lines aren't high so any filter's restrictive properties need be known.
This started as an oil change interval thread and migrated to transmission fluid concerns.
1) I "always heard" that transmission filters were just rock catchers. By "rocks" I think they mean 200 microns or larger.
2) The ease of changing an external filter allowed vehicle owners to avoid clogged filters. How diligently Joe Average maintains such a filter is open for discussion.
3) I also heard that pressures in transmission cooling lines aren't high so any filter's restrictive properties need be known.
There is an internal bypass on the transmission cooler circuit. There is 35 - 100 psi on the transmission cooler circuit in all gears and park at 1500rpm.
After the fluid returns from the cooler or bypasses it, it is used for the lubrication circuit of the transmission. The lubrication circuit is entirely fed by the cooler.
A filter on the cooler or cooler return line is effectively putting a filter immediately in front of the bearings.
I change the oil once per year with synthetic oil regardless of mileage. Typically that ends up between 10-15k miles. I change it myself using a pump from the dipstick tube... absolutely the easiest way to DIY.
I change the oil once per year with synthetic oil regardless of mileage. Typically that ends up between 10-15k miles. I change it myself using a pump from the dipstick tube... absolutely the easiest way to DIY.
Which filter are you using? Not a bad idea doing it that way as you can do it all from the top. I expect you can get just as much out as you would using the drain bolt. Unlike the transmission, you can probably get right to the bottom of the pan.
I change the oil once per year with synthetic oil regardless of mileage. Typically that ends up between 10-15k miles. I change it myself using a pump from the dipstick tube... absolutely the easiest way to DIY.
I just shuddered when I read that. For our cars/vans, I jack up the vehicle so the oil drain plug is lower than the rest of the pan, just to make sure I get as much out from the bottom of the oil pan. Maybe it doesn't make a difference in the real world, but I can't imagine only sucking the oil out and feeling like a did it the right way.
I just shuddered when I read that. For our cars/vans, I jack up the vehicle so the oil drain plug is lower than the rest of the pan, just to make sure I get as much out from the bottom of the oil pan. Maybe it doesn't make a difference in the real world, but I can't imagine only sucking the oil out and feeling like a did it the right way.
For sure it's best to use the drain plug. I suppose if someone doesn't have the means to lift the vehicle, sucking the oil out is a viable option. I've strained oil coming out of the drain plug and found nothing in terms of sediment/contaminants. You might actually be able to get more out if you have a power pump and flexible hose. Is the drain plug at the very lowest point of the pan? I can't remember and just did an oil change a week or so ago.
I think the baker does his oil changes with a pump and has done so for some time.
The marine guys know all about pumping motor oil out through the dipstick tube, been doing it for eons.
Mercedes had/have an oil extractor setup on their engines.
Nothing new about the process. Moving the tube around in the pan will likely get rid of any residual, perhaps more readily, under suction, than a drain plug.
I have suspected a couple of overfills, some years back, to be due to poor oil extraction used back then by some shops. The instantly dirty oil sort of confirmed that.
Replacing lube techs with oil-draining devices can save money, boost efficiency
Pairing a single quick-service tech with a device that extracts used oil automatically from a car or truck during an oil change can save dealerships at least $95,000 a year, according to an Orlando parts and service director.
www.autonews.com
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Last year, Kane developed a different solution: He paired a single quick-service tech with a device that extracts used oil automatically from a car or truck during an oil change. Kane estimates the shift is saving each of the dealerships at least $95,000 a year.
And because use of the oil extractor eliminates the need to remove a vehicle's drain plug, Kane expects to save thousands more each year on damage claims that previously arose from stripped or loose plugs and related mishaps.
Pairing a single quick-service tech with a device that extracts used oil automatically from a car or truck during an oil change can save dealerships at least $95,000 a year, according to an Orlando parts and service director.
www.autonews.com
.
Perhaps worthwhile to add a magnet to the outside of the oil pan though.
I take the T&C to the dealer and get two conventional oil changes per year based on 12-15k miles a year. IMO full synthetic is for hi end performance cars or one you plan to keep ten plus years.
I worked at a truck dealership for a few years and the chase vehicle had over 350,000 miles with oil changes “whenever.” What wore out or broke on the Aerostar was everything but the engine.
I take the T&C to the dealer and get two conventional oil changes per year based on 12-15k miles a year. IMO full synthetic is for hi end performance cars or one you plan to keep ten plus years.
I worked at a truck dealership for a few years and the chase vehicle had over 350,000 miles with oil changes “whenever.” What wore out or broke on the Aerostar was everything but the engine.
My wife’s Toyota is fifteen years old with 175,000 miles. No oil added between changes. I ve owned dozens of cars and have used conventional oil and synthetic on some.
IMO its just a matter of personal choice. Sort of like the brand of car wax someone uses.
Need a chemical engineer or someone in the petroleum industry to comment. SAE sets the standards.
Read. The Pennsylvania State University, Graduate School, Department of Mechanical and Nuclear Engineering. “An Engine Oil Life Algorithm”. By Anvesham Bommareddi.
Yeah, down with conventional oil, it ain't no good. That's why Chrysler says you can use it for up to 10,000 miles (16.000 km). What in heck does Chrysler know about engine oil anyway? The experts are on the web and in "big oil" marketing departments. Chrysler has the nerve to even specify 5W-20 conventional oil, a less robust oil than 5W-30. They're nuts.
Seriously, synthetic is a good oil, not a Group IV base oil (an actual synthetic) like many believe it is, and the Pennzoil, made from natural gas (dead plants, algae), is likely the cream of the crop. That being said, IMO, synthetic oil is the most over hyped, most misunderstood, misused, wasted motor oil on the planet. It should be marketed based on its longer oil change intervals and not the other characteristics that a great additive package takes care of sufficiently, and maybe even more so, with a conventional oil.
Yeah, down with conventional oil, it ain't no good. That's why Chrysler says you can use it for up to 10,000 miles (16.000 km). What in heck does Chrysler know about engine oil anyway? The experts are on the web and in "big oil" marketing departments. Chrysler has the nerve to even specify 5W-20 conventional oil, a less robust oil than 5W-30. They're nuts.
Seriously, synthetic is a good oil, not a Group IV base oil (an actual synthetic) like many believe it is, and the Pennzoil, made from natural gas (dead plants, algae), is likely the cream of the crop. That being said, synthetic oil is the most over hyped, most misunderstood, misused, wasted motor oil on the planet. It should be marketed based on its longer oil change intervals and not the other characteristics that a great additive package takes care of sufficiently, and maybe even more so, with a conventional oil.
I've been buying synthetic oil for less than conventional lately, so that's what I've been using in all 4 of our cars. The only car that I wouldn't run conventional in is my turbo Yaris, simply due to the potentially extreme temps in the turbo's center housing rotating assembly. It's not in there for long but temps could possibly exceed that of a conventional oil. Although I always let the turbo cool before shut down, oil sitting in there gets quite toasty. Synthetic is, in my understanding, more resistant to oil coking.