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Melted injector wiring harness 2003 Town and Country

287K views 302 replies 96 participants last post by  daisyblu0620 
#1 ·
Finally! I found it! I had codes p0300, p0302, p0304, p0172 and many others. I changed so many parts.

the wiring harness was melted together, just under and behind the power steering reservoir.

I taped it all up with a mile of electrical tape and gave it a lot of heat protection wrapping, hooked up battery and she runs great!
 

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#3 ·
harness

if mine looked like that, i would have ordered a new harness and put some protective wrap on it. Heat and age takes a toll on wire.


http://www.wholesalemopar.com

4868408AC $196.02

WIRING FUEL RAIL - (this is the harness)
 
#241 ·
if mine looked like that, i would have ordered a new harness and put some protective wrap on it. Heat and age takes a toll on wire.


http://www.wholesalemopar.com

4868408AC $196.02

WIRING FUEL RAIL - (this is the harness)
I just clicked that link and it's been superceded by the "D" version and now runs out at $253!!! Anyone know why or found an alternative without making your own up?
 
#4 · (Edited)
check that fuel injection harness!

bump

Inexpensive fix (instead of a new fuel injection harness) for a very common problem on these vans as they get older.

The connector for the harness unplugs near the exhaust manifold on the drivers side.
The wires get brittle with age from the heat and can generate P020x & P030x code errors.

The Chrysler part number for the 10 pin connector harness repair kit is 05017114AA.
If you google for a price, use 05017114AA or drop the first zero and use 5017114AA.

The kit includes a new 10 pin connector, and the terminals are pre-crimped on 20 inches of wire.
It also comes with heat shrink, and some crimp connectors.

Also get some heat resistant loom to replace the original one that is falling apart.

That 10-pin connector is also used in other parts of the van, if you want to pull from a wreck:
C102 (3.3L/3.8L) - BLACK (FUEL RAIL SIDE) 05017114AA (this is the side near the exhaust manifold)
C303 - BLACK (RT. FRONT DOOR SIDE) 05017114AA
C316 - BLACK (LEFT SLIDING DOOR JUMPER) 05017114AA
C317 - BLACK (RIGHT SLIDING DOOR JUMPER) 05017114AA

I elected to fabricate a whole new harness instead of repairing my existing one.

I will create a separate post for that.

My wires for a 2001 fuel injection harness at the 10 pin connector are:
CAV CIRCUIT
1 K342 16BR/WT - Automatic Shutdown Relay
2 K1 18VT/BR - MAP sensor 1
3 K11 16BR/YL - FI 1
4 K12 16BR/DB - FI 2
5 K13 16BK/LB - FI 3
6 K14 16BR/TN - FI 4
7 K900 18DB/DG - Map Sensor 2
8 K38 16BR/OR FI 5
9 K58 16BR/VT - FI 6
10 F855 18OR/PK - Map Sensor 3
 

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#11 ·
create a post for wiring

bump

Inexpensive fix (instead of a new fuel injection harness) for a very common problem on these vans as they get older.

The connector for the harness unplugs near the exhaust manifold on the drivers side.
The wires get brittle with age from the heat and can generate P020x & P030x code errors.

The Chrysler part number for the 10 pin connector harness repair kit is 05017114AA.
If you google for a price, use 05017114AA or drop the first zero and use 5017114AA.

The kit includes a new 10 pin connector, and the terminals are pre-crimped on 20 inches of wire.
It also comes with heat shrink, and some crimp connectors.

Also get some heat resistant loom to replace the original one that is falling apart.

That 10-pin connector is also used in other parts of the van, if you want to pull from a wreck:
C102 (3.3L/3.8L) - BLACK (FUEL RAIL SIDE) 05017114AA (this is the side near the exhaust manifold)
C303 - BLACK (RT. FRONT DOOR SIDE) 05017114AA
C316 - BLACK (LEFT SLIDING DOOR JUMPER) 05017114AA
C317 - BLACK (RIGHT SLIDING DOOR JUMPER) 05017114AA

I elected to fabricate a whole new harness instead of repairing my existing one.

I will create a separate post for that.

My wires for a 2001 fuel injection harness at the 10 pin connector are:
CAV CIRCUIT
1 K342 16BR/WT - Automatic Shutdown Relay
2 K1 18VT/BR - MAP sensor 1
3 K11 16BR/YL - FI 1
4 K12 16BR/DB - FI 2
5 K13 16BK/LB - FI 3
6 K14 16BR/TN - FI 4
7 K900 18DB/DG - Map Sensor 2
8 K38 16BR/OR FI 5
9 K58 16BR/VT - FI 6
10 F855 18OR/PK - Map Sensor 3
Hi sselander, do you ever create a post for the wiring thanks
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
pics of the wrap & new harness

Extra length harness does not help, since the connector it plugs into remains in place and cannot be moved easily. Using some of this will help



new wrap:



new harness:





 
#8 ·
I had the same problem 2yrs ago, difficult to find the source of the codes, even the dealer didn't find it & nearly had me buying a new computer.
After a month of frustration, research, posting to this forum, I finally found the melted bundle; no one could believe the engine could even run.
I did the same fix as sselander, also added some hanging straps to ensure it did not come close to anything hot again.
No problems since, except that during the month of bad engine performance, my catalytic converter is fouled & apparently needs replacing.
 
#10 ·
In my case, the dealer knew the car had a p0303 error and completely missed the bad connector with the wires exposed.
somehow, they got the car running again and the code returned in a week.
Only after I took the plenum off and inspected the harness did I notice the insulation falling off and wires exposed.

If you have a 4th gen mini-van, it is imperative the harness gets checked.

This will prevent many headaches down the road.

Symptoms and codes will be
P030x - misfire
P020x - open fuel injection circuit

x=cylinder number
 
#14 ·
I had a bad #5 injector, and after replacing it and putting it back together, a slew of error codes popped up.
Turns out, I had the same problem everyone else had here... Much appreciated post!

After I rebuilt the new harness.. wish mine looked as nice as sselander's.... I'm still getting error code readings. I'm prying my PCM didn't get fried throughout this ordeal.
I'm getting a bunch of voltage reading errors, and I'm certain I've got it rebuilt correctly.

Some of the error codes pertain to sections that my harness had nothing to do with... example.. #'s 1, 2, 3 on the coil are not firing correctly, and the voltage to my IAC isn't right. I'm also getting a code for my MAP sensor and my #3 injector... I think these are all voltage issues.

Does anyone know where or who might have a wiring diagram I can look at.. see how these things might be related. They were all working fine until I changed my #5 injector.

MANY THANKS!! and much appreciated... more importantly.. my wife thanks you!
 
#26 ·
I am curious have you gotten this fixed? I have an 01 that threw a #2 injector code so I took it apart and ohmed the old injector and compared it to a new injector and they were the same so i put it back together to further investigate the miss I had and it hasnt ran since. I guess my question is after you replaced your #5 injector did it run afterward or not.
Tiny
 
#17 ·
#19 · (Edited)
Thanks for that email! So if I'm looking at this PDF correctly, there is no other connector between the PCM and that 10 pin harness.. correct?

Looking at this.. I'm a little confused how my Idle air control and Barometric sensors are getting irregular voltage readings. The MAP sensor is worked in with the 10 pin harness, also bad voltage reading, but IAC isn't anywhere near this stuff.

Do you think this is sounding more and more like a bad PCM?
 
#20 ·
I made a jumper wire (extra fuel injection connector) and a t-pin to go directly from the fuel injector to the PCM.
That is what confirmed it for me.

I have a Chrysler document that has a clear troubleshooting flowchart and as I went through it testing various components I was able to confirm my replacement computer had gotten fried.

I'll see if I can find that one also.

I believe the IAC has variable voltage so that could be the reason for your voltage readings.
 
#24 · (Edited by Moderator)
It should be in the same spot.
Follow the harness until you get to the connector.
The fuel injectors are under the plenum, but you can feel them with your hand.
The harness exits on the drivers side, near the power steering reservoir. ( had to undo mine and swing it out of that way for better access)

 
#25 ·
I just talked to my indie garage mechanic/friend and he tells me that this is indeed a very common problem with the 4 generation vans. He says splitting a heater tube and wrapping the wire harness inside will keep them from being melted. I'm gona do this on my 06 caravan as a preventative measure. Hopefully it will work.
 
#29 ·
Well I will consider myself lucky. I went out tonight and fixed the harness but it still didnt run. I was getting an ASD code so as luck would have it the fuse was blown, good right, nope. I was getting high circuit codes on TPS IAT and coolant. However I read on this site at one time or another about checking the ground for the sensors and that was it. After sitting since August I finally ran again. I would have never figured it out if not for this site. My first computer was fried it ran but there was no dash or dummy lights but thankfully the replacement one still was good.
 
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