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if mine looked like that, i would have ordered a new harness and put some protective wrap on it. Heat and age takes a toll on wire.


http://www.wholesalemopar.com

4868408AC $196.02

WIRING FUEL RAIL - (this is the harness)
I just clicked that link and it's been superceded by the "D" version and now runs out at $253!!! Anyone know why or found an alternative without making your own up?
 

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I just clicked that link and it's been superceded by the "D" version and now runs out at $253!!! Anyone know why or found an alternative without making your own up?
Typical Mopar that when they have a (minor/major) change to the part that they change the number suffix. I believe that they will also change the number when they change suppliers.

The alternative is the Dorman harness that runs in the $170 range.
 

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Typical Mopar that when they have a (minor/major) change to the part that they change the number suffix. I believe that they will also change the number when they change suppliers.

The alternative is the Dorman harness that runs in the $170 range.
Thanks Douggro. I managed to pick up the Dorman one on Amazon USA for $108! Delivery extra of course but a bargain all the same.......
 

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Thanks Douggro. I managed to pick up the Dorman one on Amazon USA for $108! Delivery extra of course but a bargain all the same.......
I didn't have the luxury of time to get one from Amazon, but $108 is a fair deal.
 

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Melted Injector Harness Wiring

I have a 2002 T&C with the same melted injector wiring. I was having all kinds of random cylinder misfires in virtually every cylinder. Funny thing, the car ran fine two days before. I'm glad I did not start blindly replacing everything but rather searched for engine misfires om 2002 town and country and found this thread. My son and I found the plug and pulled it and proceeded to inspect the harness to find exactly the melted wiring problem described in this thread. My van has 264,000+ miles on it. God only knows how long ago the wiring insulation melted and only just now shorted out. We'd had a cold snap in the meantime.

My son and I repaired the wiring. We had to use a hot air gun to further melt some insulation to free up all the wireds before repairing them. We cut one wire at a time leaving about 1" at the connector and cut out about 3-1/2 to 4 inches of wire and using butt splices and heat shrink tubing rejoined each wire one by one. We did this to make sure we did not cross up any wiring. We re-bundled the wiring making sure that they can no longer get down near the exhaust manifold and get melted again. Being a few inches shorter should help prevent that too.

After we got the harness plugged back in the engine ran much, much better but still had a misfire on Cyclinder 5 (P0305). At least now we did not have random misfires all over the place. We pulled #5 plug, cleaned it and regapped it put it back and made sure the plug wire was fully seated on the plug and the coil pack but still had a misfire on #5.

I suppose at this point the driver transistor in the ECU for fuel injector #5 may have failed and I am looking at replacing the ECU or sending it out for repair.

Is there anything else I should look into before outright replacing the ECU? I would prefer to not pay for a new one if I don't need it.

I'm thinking I may back-probe the ECU connector for the #5 injector to see what I might be getting there. Of course I'll need to figure out which connector and which pin it is first.

Does anyone have any helpful thoughts?

Thanks.
 

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To be correct I should have said PCM not ECU. Also after finding a wiring diagram it appears that injector is controlled from PCM connector C1 pin 15.
 

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I suppose at this point the driver transistor in the ECU for fuel injector #5 may have failed and I am looking at replacing the ECU or sending it out for repair.

Is there anything else I should look into before outright replacing the ECU? I would prefer to not pay for a new one if I don't need it.

I'm thinking I may back-probe the ECU connector for the #5 injector to see what I might be getting there. Of course I'll need to figure out which connector and which pin it is first.

Does anyone have any helpful thoughts?

Thanks.
Swapping one of the other injectors with the one in #5 would be the proof that it's the circuit not the injector. Sadly one of the common by-products of the melted harness is frying the injector driver circuits in the PCM necessitating a PCM swap. I'm pretty sure that the injector driver uses a ground-side switched PWM to control them and you'd need a scope to read the injector cycles.
 

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I have a 2003 T&C with a 3.8 and had this problem corrected before but it still misfires on occasion with no error codes generated. I've replaced the PCM with a rebuilt unit but that has not corrected problem either. Although we live with the occasional misfire. I've read in other threads that the shorted harness could have damaged the fuel injector somehow..... The car seems to run better after using a gasoline additive that claims both fuel injector cleaning and conditioning. If you are successful in testing and/or replacing a fuel injector to fix this misfire then, I would greatly appreciate the details.......
 

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2002 Grand Caravan ES 3.8L
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Assuming the issue gets better when using a fuel injector cleaner, then yes it sounds like an injector issue (not unheard of).:headbange

Best to start a new Topic IMO.
 

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Troubleshooting

Thanks for some good ideas. I haven't had a chance yet to probe the injector wiring at the PCM. I need to figure out how to ID which connector is C1 and identify pin 15 on that connector so that I can probe it. I'm leaning more toward a failed driver in the PCM because the car was running great just two days before. It hadn't been driven for those two days then apparently temperature change (we had a very cold snap) and when I went to drive the car I had serious random misfires on multiple cylinders. All those shorted wires could have blown the fuel injector driver for #5.
 

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Finally! I found it! I had codes p0300, p0302, p0304, p0172 and many others. I changed so many parts.

the wiring harness was melted together, just under and behind the power steering reservoir.

I taped it all up with a mile of electrical tape and gave it a lot of heat protection wrapping, hooked up battery and she runs great!
I replaced my melted harness and the shorted ecm. It fix the misfire and bad voltage, but now after a year the map sensor, keeps going bad (I keep replacing it under warranty) what is the chance the the original short cause wires up the line to be damaged?
 

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1999 Chrysler Town & Country Limited; 2001 Chrysler Town & Country LXi
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Well, if there is an upside to the COVID19 quarantine, it is that all of my kids' activities were canceled and I have all kinds of free time. I bought a very nice 2001 Town and Country which spent its entire life in the south. No rust, but 150,000 miles put on by a retired snowbird. It had a some minor issues including a bunch of transmission codes (P1782, P1784, P0732, P1790, P1791 & P0736). I changed the Trans solenoid and the codes were all resolved. But it continued to throw the P601 and P0443 codes. I purchased a new PCM and those codes were resolved. The van runs spectacularly and will be my daily driver once my sons get their drivers license and I give them my current daily driver (99 T&C Limited).

I digress. Back to COVID 19. From the outside, the injector wiring harness looked pristine. But with all this extra time on my hands, I decided to open it up as a precaution. I was absolutely astonished to find all ten (10) wires had portions of insulation melted away. In fact, the only insulation that remained on most were the edges that touched each other. So basically, the entire surface area of the outside perimeter of the harness had the insulation melted away.

One by one, I cut out all of the bad sections (about 8 inches each) and soldered new wire in its place. I used shrink wrap tubing over each solder joint. Then, I wrapped it in asbestos and sealed it all up with another giant heat shrink wrap. In all, it took about two (2) hours to make the repair. I would NOT have tackled it myself had I not had all this unexpected free time. I have not yet reinstalled because I am awaiting delivery of new fuel injector O-rings (I figured it was a good $3 investment at this point). I am also going to wrap in titanium exhaust heat wrap before installation. Overkill? perhaps.

Anyway, I will report back once I have it all put back together. I have read that this wiring harness issue is the prime culprit in frying the PCM's. I have driven the van no more 20 miles since swapping out PCM's with the melted wiring harness. I was not throwing any codes when I tore into this project, so I trust that I have not fried my brand new PCM. Fingers crossed.

57784


57785


57786


57787
 

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Sorry to revive an old thread but this is my current situation as I’m getting cyl 3 misfire and injector 3 circuit this is 5 days after I’ve done a tuneup. Before you ask if the mechanic changed all of the spark plugs yes I changed every last plug wire and brand new coil was running perfect for 4 days. The evening of day 4’s startup got the check engine light. So far today I pulled the wiper tray and everything associated with making everything easy to get to done. Disconnected the injector harness found no broken wires that would warrant me need to patch but took off all tape plastic covering wires so put plenty of tape back. Currently still have said codes and engine is shaking now how do I find this circuit in the pcm would anyone happen to know when opened where circuit is located?
 

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Year, Make, Model, and Mileage please.
(Myself, I would regularly forget, so I put it in my signature)easy.

So, why did you replace these parts? Was there a situation before you did maintenance?

OK, so your harness had been previously melted and repaired by tape?
AND you recently inspected it and put it all back together since this misfire has happened?

You say you replaced all the spark plugs and the coil.
What spark plugs did you install?
How about the ignition wires? The ignition wire's ability to contain the high voltage can deteriorate over time. These new silicon wires can feel and look great but they may still discharge to ground or each other and cause misfire. My vehicle, you will see all the wires isolated and floating (not touching each other or the engine block) carefully secured in the wire looms.

What codes are you getting (all of them)(the code please and not your interpretation of what it means) and did/was the 'check engine light' illuminated before this? (If so, how long?)
Sorry to revive an old thread but this is my current situation as I’m getting cyl 3 misfire and injector 3 circuit this is 5 days after I’ve done a tuneup. Before you ask if the mechanic changed all of the spark plugs yes I changed every last plug wire and brand new coil was running perfect for 4 days. The evening of day 4’s startup got the check engine light. So far today I pulled the wiper tray and everything associated with making everything easy to get to done. Disconnected the injector harness found no broken wires that would warrant me need to patch but took off all tape plastic covering wires so put plenty of tape back. Currently still have said codes and engine is shaking now how do I find this circuit in the pcm would anyone happen to know when opened where circuit is located?
 

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I don’t have a code scanner but will stop by my local mechanic in the morning and write codes down. It did have a code before it was an evap leak very small it said code again will pull in the morning and update, as far as plugs I got NGK Vpower coil was BWD and forgot the brand of wires. Also bought a injector from Advance Auto and changed it.
 

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** here is a neat trick courtesy of Chrysler/Dodge:

Turn the ignition key all the way ON but just shy of cranking the starter. then turn it -OFF - ON - OFF - ON and then you can read the codes one by one on the LCD of the odometer until it read 'doNE' (have a pencil handy)

For some reason, everyone who is 'anyone' here, we all use the Champion Double Platinum spark plugs #7440
This information and part number can be found on the white engine information sticker under the hood.
They (we) claim that the engine runs best on these plugs.

[To clear the codes / reset the computer]

disconnect at least one battery terminal and touch the two battery wires together to discharge the stored energy in the capacitors in the ECM (or wait about 10-20 minutes with a battery wire disconnected)

I just love this place...
 

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Only one code came up P1684 which is battery disconnected within 50 cycles or some crap like that but she’s still shaking and running rough.
 
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