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Check your electrical connectors, make sure they are seated and the red lock tabs are firmly in place, check your spark plugs if the porcelin part of the spark plug is not cracked, hair line cracks....also the wire that connect to the coil. Also the possibility is that if you ran the vehicle long enough with the misfires, then you may have fried your injectors....
If you have already repaired the injector wiring harness.
 

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i have a 04 town and country 3.3 , p0206 changed injector and no help then ran up on this post .. of course my harness was bad fixed it and still no go . checked voltage to injector and continuity all check to the injector. im thinking the ecm is bad ? what do you all think ?
 

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Ecm

My ECM was blown along with MAP sensor. Replacements solved all issues except now I am left with flickering dash lights but I can live with that. Good luck!
 

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Hi did you check the injector connector with a noid light? if it lights up the circuit should be good you could also switch the injectors and see if the problem moves to another cyl. you may need to check compresson
 

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i have a 04 town and country 3.3 , p0206 changed injector and no help then ran up on this post .. of course my harness was bad fixed it and still no go . checked voltage to injector and continuity all check to the injector. im thinking the ecm is bad ? what do you all think ?
i had same issue check out link i pasted. my ecm was damaged from the harness being melted your injectors have a constant positive and a switched ground. hope it helps https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-caravan/396675-04-p0201-harness-melted.html
 

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they do not have to melt. The wires can get brittle from the heat. all you need to replace is the connector from the side of the harness that goes to the injectors and splice in a "pigtail"

Part number 5017114AA, and comes with 20" inches of wire.
If the wires are all still intact, can't you just reinsulate them and use the original? Or, if you need to cut and splice and there is enough good wire left behind the connector to do splicing, you could just reuse the old connector, right?
 

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My van has a P302 code so I thought I'd check the wiring harness to see if has the "melted wire" issue. Visually it looks OK but from reading this thread I see that the wires inside may still be damaged.

I'm having trouble getting the connector off. I moved the red tab to the unlock postion and I've pressed down on the tab at the back of the connector but it won't budge (not in an easy spot to get both hands on it). Am I missing something else that might be keeping the connector from releasing? AFAIK it hasn't been disconnected since it left the factory.

I've removed similar connectors (red unlock tab, push down in the back of the tab) in the van without too much trouble.

TIA
 

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I'm having trouble getting the connector off. I moved the red tab to the unlock postion and I've pressed down on the tab at the back of the connector but it won't budge (not in an easy spot to get both hands on it). Am I missing something else that might be keeping the connector from releasing? AFAIK it hasn't been disconnected since it left the factory.
Use a small pick tool or flat-blade screwdriver and carefully work around the edge of the connector where they join to separate them. I had the same problem with mine and that was just enough to break them apart and allow them to release.
 

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Thanks Doug - I'll give that a try over the weekend.

Am I correct that the connector on the wiring harness (once free) will slide off the small piece that has the two push "pins" that hold the connector in place?
 

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Thanks Doug - I'll give that a try over the weekend.

Am I correct that the connector on the wiring harness (once free) will slide off the small piece that has the two push "pins" that hold the connector in place?
If you're talking about the "christmas-tree" pins on the C102 connector that hold it on the bracket behind the PS reservoir, it's usually better to carefully pry the whole connector off the bracket than trying to separate the connector from the blade those pins are part of. It's almost impossible to get behind the connector and release the tab on the blade that locks it into the connector body. It's still a dodgy proposition to get the pins out of the bracket without breaking them; the heat makes the plastic brittle and the little "flaps" on the pins want to just break off. The less you rock the connector back and forth, the better the chances of it coming out intact are. Work from the middle and see if you can get something to evenly pry both ends of the connector at the same time: needle-nose pliers might be the trick. Those pins on mine are toast, so I held the connector to the bracket with a zip-tie.
 

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Put me in the Melted Injector Harness Club. :angrya:

As I detailed in the post about the P0106 code, the van died on the wife yesterday and threw the P0106 and P0107 codes. Pulled the plenum tonight and got the upper section of the harness out. Melted within an inch of the C102 connector, just hiding under the insulation wrap. I've got some pics that I'll try to post in a follow-up. Fortunately, I don't think the melting had gotten to the point where it was doing damage to the PCM, given that it only threw the MAP codes, but there was a strong fuel smell in the plenum and the ports are rather wet. I'm betting that some injectors were affected by the melted wires.
 

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Same deal as many here (I've read through to page 14 so far). I changed plugs and wires, still had p0305 and p0306, changed coil pack, now have p0301.

On to the harness: I unplugged the back 1,3,5 spark plug wires from the coil pack and had my hands on the wire harness to inspect, when I accidentally hit a small tube running from the engine ... it snapped in two, very brittle. Any idea what the part is? I'm assuming some sort of vac hose. Picture attached. I will need to run to a shop to pick a new one up.

Now back to the wire harness to see if it's an issue. If not, then I will test the coil pack to make sure the new one isn't faulty. Since the problem jumped from 5/6 to 1, I doubt its an injector.

When started, the car runs very shaky and the exhaust is very rich, the exhaust also makes a throbbing sound.



https://drive.google.com/open?id=1g1DC9BEqTcKGRI4k6toa5f8G7Sekfy76

2004 Chrysler T&C 3.8L Ltd
 

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unstrapped velcro and my wires are in perfect condition, no signs of melting. I'm going to tape it back up for now but eventually wrap in some form of heat shield once I have the current problem figured out.
 

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I'm not joining the Melted Injector Harness Club.

After finally being able to disconnect the harness connector and examine the wiring, all looked undamaged and pretty much in like new condition.

As I posted earlier, I had a hard time getting the harness disconnected. So finally I decided to unbolt and move the PS reservior off to the side and then I also removed the coil and the plate the coil sits on. This allowed me better access to the connector. I was able to pull the connector off of the bracket by hand without damaging the "Christmas tree" pins. Then using Doug's suggestion I used a very small screwdriver and worked it around the area where the two connector pieces join. At that point I was easily able to separate the connector. I used compressed air to blow out a lot of grit from both connector pieces before reconnecting them.
 

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...when I accidentally hit a small tube running from the engine ... it snapped in two, very brittle. Any idea what the part is? I'm assuming some sort of vac hose. Picture attached. I will need to run to a shop to pick a new one up.
It's a vacuum line that serves either the cruise control or the purge system. Had the same thing happen to me working on the daughters' car. Take a piece of the broken part with you to the parts store - there is vacuum line (1/8" I.D. IIRC) that will fit over it. Cut out the brittle section and use the good ends as nipples for the vacuum hose.
 

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Did the repair today on my melted harness though I took the easy, albeit expensive, way of doing the fix. Bought the Doorman replacement harness (p/n 911089) available through NAPA, AutoZone and practically anyone that carries Doorman parts. I checked the fitment before committing and it's good enough to not cause issues - just wish it matched the original wire colors. The Doorman harness comes with just a plastic mesh wrap around the bend area that is the problem area, so I put a full wrap of electrical tape on it followed with a layer of foil tape, then put the original heat shield wrap around that and whipped a few wraps of tape on that to secure it. Fired up on the first crank and is running fine now.

Took the opportunity while I had the plenum off to remove the throttle body and give it a good cleaning - it was seriously caked with crud on the inside. Shot the inside of the plenum with throttle body cleaner then some carb cleaner followed with blasting with the compressor to clean the inside a little bit.
 

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Hello all. I was one of the first victims of this faulty design/ construction, or at least one of the first to bring it to everyone's attention. It sucks that some 6 or 7 years later, people are still going through the exact same thing! I'm not going to rehash 24 pages of stories, but I just wanted to stress a couple of things that are key to the problem and easy to lose amongst the various sordid details.

The harness that is causing most of these problems has maybe 15 or so individual wires, each 'wrapped' with its own insulation. This bundle odd wires is wrapped in a canvas protective cover which velcroes to itself around the wires. From the outside, the wires look fine -- seemingly protected by a study canvas cover. But the wires inside are deteriorating in an almost random fashion. But they ARE! Trust me on this. But because it isn't one wire or two, the computer doesn't throw one particular code. Some are more common, like misfire in cylinders, but don't get lost in the trees. The forest is all around you. Take the harness out and either replace it, repair it or make a new one. That is the list odd options.

I just wanted to bring this up since most of us don't have the time top read all 24 pages.
 

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Hello all. I was one of the first victims of this faulty design/ construction, or at least one of the first to bring it to everyone's attention. It sucks that some 6 or 7 years later, people are still going through the exact same thing! I'm not going to rehash 24 pages of stories, but I just wanted to stress a couple of things that are key to the problem and easy to lose amongst the various sordid details.

The harness that is causing most of these problems has maybe 15 or so individual wires, each 'wrapped' with its own insulation. This bundle odd wires is wrapped in a canvas protective cover which velcroes to itself around the wires. From the outside, the wires look fine -- seemingly protected by a study canvas cover. But the wires inside are deteriorating in an almost random fashion. But they ARE! Trust me on this. But because it isn't one wire or two, the computer doesn't throw one particular code. Some are more common, like misfire in cylinders, but don't get lost in the trees. The forest is all around you. Take the harness out and either replace it, repair it or make a new one. That is the list odd options.

I just wanted to bring this up since most of us don't have the time top read all 24 pages.
Can you please elaborate?

You first posted 1 1/2 years after this thread was initiated.

Important Note:

Now I get it! You and this guy are the same guy, correct?:

if mine looked like that, i would have ordered a new harness and put some protective wrap on it. Heat and age takes a toll on wire.


http://www.wholesalemopar.com

4868408AC $196.02

WIRING FUEL RAIL - (this is the harness)
 

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nope that was me. I hand built my harness from buying the connectors, cross-link wire, terminals, and crimper.
I still have a bunch of the terminals.
Still going strong when I sold it.

That guy ( sselander ) was banned by jazztrumpet216, I believe.

Seems to be the same guy, under different nick: HiFiGator

I might be wrong, I don't have access to the backend or to to the logs you'll have.

Nice job!
 
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