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Finally! I found it! I had codes p0300, p0302, p0304, p0172 and many others. I changed so many parts.

the wiring harness was melted together, just under and behind the power steering reservoir.

I taped it all up with a mile of electrical tape and gave it a lot of heat protection wrapping, hooked up battery and she runs great!
 

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Hey, not I have a nice new code reader out of the deal. Oh, and it carbon black on 2 plugs, running just terrible. the wife will give it the test tomorrow (hope it still works out fine!)
 

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check that fuel injection harness!

bump

Inexpensive fix (instead of a new fuel injection harness) for a very common problem on these vans as they get older.

The connector for the harness unplugs near the exhaust manifold on the drivers side.
The wires get brittle with age from the heat and can generate P020x & P030x code errors.

The Chrysler part number for the 10 pin connector harness repair kit is 05017114AA.
If you google for a price, use 05017114AA or drop the first zero and use 5017114AA.

The kit includes a new 10 pin connector, and the terminals are pre-crimped on 20 inches of wire.
It also comes with heat shrink, and some crimp connectors.

Also get some heat resistant loom to replace the original one that is falling apart.

That 10-pin connector is also used in other parts of the van, if you want to pull from a wreck:
C102 (3.3L/3.8L) - BLACK (FUEL RAIL SIDE) 05017114AA (this is the side near the exhaust manifold)
C303 - BLACK (RT. FRONT DOOR SIDE) 05017114AA
C316 - BLACK (LEFT SLIDING DOOR JUMPER) 05017114AA
C317 - BLACK (RIGHT SLIDING DOOR JUMPER) 05017114AA

I elected to fabricate a whole new harness instead of repairing my existing one.

I will create a separate post for that.

My wires for a 2001 fuel injection harness at the 10 pin connector are:
CAV CIRCUIT
1 K342 16BR/WT - Automatic Shutdown Relay
2 K1 18VT/BR - MAP sensor 1
3 K11 16BR/YL - FI 1
4 K12 16BR/DB - FI 2
5 K13 16BK/LB - FI 3
6 K14 16BR/TN - FI 4
7 K900 18DB/DG - Map Sensor 2
8 K38 16BR/OR FI 5
9 K58 16BR/VT - FI 6
10 F855 18OR/PK - Map Sensor 3
 

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Wonder if anyone has ever made a longer harness and mounted it further away from the exhaust.
 

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pics of the wrap & new harness

Extra length harness does not help, since the connector it plugs into remains in place and cannot be moved easily. Using some of this will help



new wrap:



new harness:





 

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I had the same problem 2yrs ago, difficult to find the source of the codes, even the dealer didn't find it & nearly had me buying a new computer.
After a month of frustration, research, posting to this forum, I finally found the melted bundle; no one could believe the engine could even run.
I did the same fix as sselander, also added some hanging straps to ensure it did not come close to anything hot again.
No problems since, except that during the month of bad engine performance, my catalytic converter is fouled & apparently needs replacing.
 

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I own since 4 months a Voyager with the 3.3v6.
Is it correct that these engines warm up quick?
Sometimes after a drive i can almost smell the heat. These engines become more hot then others i owned.
Temperature gauge reading is normal.
 

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In my case, the dealer knew the car had a p0303 error and completely missed the bad connector with the wires exposed.
somehow, they got the car running again and the code returned in a week.
Only after I took the plenum off and inspected the harness did I notice the insulation falling off and wires exposed.

If you have a 4th gen mini-van, it is imperative the harness gets checked.

This will prevent many headaches down the road.

Symptoms and codes will be
P030x - misfire
P020x - open fuel injection circuit

x=cylinder number

I had the same problem 2yrs ago, difficult to find the source of the codes, even the dealer didn't find it & nearly had me buying a new computer.
After a month of frustration, research, posting to this forum, I finally found the melted bundle; no one could believe the engine could even run.
I did the same fix as sselander, also added some hanging straps to ensure it did not come close to anything hot again.
No problems since, except that during the month of bad engine performance, my catalytic converter is fouled & apparently needs replacing.
 

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create a post for wiring

bump

Inexpensive fix (instead of a new fuel injection harness) for a very common problem on these vans as they get older.

The connector for the harness unplugs near the exhaust manifold on the drivers side.
The wires get brittle with age from the heat and can generate P020x & P030x code errors.

The Chrysler part number for the 10 pin connector harness repair kit is 05017114AA.
If you google for a price, use 05017114AA or drop the first zero and use 5017114AA.

The kit includes a new 10 pin connector, and the terminals are pre-crimped on 20 inches of wire.
It also comes with heat shrink, and some crimp connectors.

Also get some heat resistant loom to replace the original one that is falling apart.

That 10-pin connector is also used in other parts of the van, if you want to pull from a wreck:
C102 (3.3L/3.8L) - BLACK (FUEL RAIL SIDE) 05017114AA (this is the side near the exhaust manifold)
C303 - BLACK (RT. FRONT DOOR SIDE) 05017114AA
C316 - BLACK (LEFT SLIDING DOOR JUMPER) 05017114AA
C317 - BLACK (RIGHT SLIDING DOOR JUMPER) 05017114AA

I elected to fabricate a whole new harness instead of repairing my existing one.

I will create a separate post for that.

My wires for a 2001 fuel injection harness at the 10 pin connector are:
CAV CIRCUIT
1 K342 16BR/WT - Automatic Shutdown Relay
2 K1 18VT/BR - MAP sensor 1
3 K11 16BR/YL - FI 1
4 K12 16BR/DB - FI 2
5 K13 16BK/LB - FI 3
6 K14 16BR/TN - FI 4
7 K900 18DB/DG - Map Sensor 2
8 K38 16BR/OR FI 5
9 K58 16BR/VT - FI 6
10 F855 18OR/PK - Map Sensor 3
Hi sselander, do you ever create a post for the wiring thanks
 

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I still have to do this, it involved a lot of small parts that I had to track down.

Upon inspection of my harness, the major piece that goes bad is near the 10pin harness mentioned above due yo heat/age/
 

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I had a bad #5 injector, and after replacing it and putting it back together, a slew of error codes popped up.
Turns out, I had the same problem everyone else had here... Much appreciated post!

After I rebuilt the new harness.. wish mine looked as nice as sselander's.... I'm still getting error code readings. I'm prying my PCM didn't get fried throughout this ordeal.
I'm getting a bunch of voltage reading errors, and I'm certain I've got it rebuilt correctly.

Some of the error codes pertain to sections that my harness had nothing to do with... example.. #'s 1, 2, 3 on the coil are not firing correctly, and the voltage to my IAC isn't right. I'm also getting a code for my MAP sensor and my #3 injector... I think these are all voltage issues.

Does anyone know where or who might have a wiring diagram I can look at.. see how these things might be related. They were all working fine until I changed my #5 injector.

MANY THANKS!! and much appreciated... more importantly.. my wife thanks you!
 

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I have a diagram for my 2001.
I will have to look for it.
If the wiring gets shorted, it may fry the PCM.
For me it was costly. (2 PCM's), but the van is running great now.
 

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I sure appreciate you looking that up for me! I'm anxiously awaiting your response!

Bad deal on the PCM's.. however I found a place that rebuilds them for $199.
Thanks!
Adam
 

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Thanks for that email! So if I'm looking at this PDF correctly, there is no other connector between the PCM and that 10 pin harness.. correct?

Looking at this.. I'm a little confused how my Idle air control and Barometric sensors are getting irregular voltage readings. The MAP sensor is worked in with the 10 pin harness, also bad voltage reading, but IAC isn't anywhere near this stuff.

Do you think this is sounding more and more like a bad PCM?
 

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I made a jumper wire (extra fuel injection connector) and a t-pin to go directly from the fuel injector to the PCM.
That is what confirmed it for me.

I have a Chrysler document that has a clear troubleshooting flowchart and as I went through it testing various components I was able to confirm my replacement computer had gotten fried.

I'll see if I can find that one also.

I believe the IAC has variable voltage so that could be the reason for your voltage readings.
 
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