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2014 Chrysler Town & Country 30th Anniversary Edition. 3.6L, 211kW
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello.

Took my 2014 T&C to inspection today and didn’t pass because the rear left brake was considerably weaker than others. The issue was with both driving brake and parking brake. Parking brake’s stopping power difference between the rare brakes was 92%.
Since the issue is with both driving and parking brake then what could be the cause? Parking brake have gotten stuck at some point and chewed through the pads material?

Thanks


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Something is sticking, stuck or seized in that brake assembly, most likely. Getting any vibrations/shaking?

I had a left front pin seize up solid on my 2016. That seizing process caused excessive and uneven wear on the inside pad. I ended up replacing the caliper bracket and pins (2). I did get the seized pin out of the old caliper bracket, but with much more than expected effort. Pounding on it with a steel maul was one of several approaches.

With that problem, the brake would not engage properly, hence much weaker.

If in your shoes, I would be taking the wheel off to have a look at what the problem might be.

Since the issue is with both driving and parking brake then what could be the cause? Parking brake have gotten stuck at some point and chewed through the pads material?
Not unless all pad material is gone. If that were the case you would be getting a metal on metal scraping noise.
 

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2014 Chrysler Town & Country 30th Anniversary Edition. 3.6L, 211kW
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Discussion Starter #4
Something is sticking, stuck or seized in that brake assembly, most likely. Getting any vibrations/shaking?

I had a left front pin seize up solid on my 2016. That seizing process caused excessive and uneven wear on the inside pad. I ended up replacing the caliper bracket and pins (2). I did get the seized pin out of the old caliper bracket, but with much more than expected effort. Pounding on it with a steel maul was one of several approaches.

With that problem, the brake would not engage properly, hence much weaker.

If in your shoes, I would be taking the wheel off to have a look at what the problem might be.



Not unless all pad material is gone. If that were the case you would be getting a metal on metal scraping noise.
I sent it in today. We’ll see what they discover and I’ll report back.


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If you can do the work yourself, I was amazed at how inexpensive rear calipers are. You can get a side for under 70 dollars from O'Reillys or Rock Auto.
 

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2014 Chrysler Town & Country 30th Anniversary Edition. 3.6L, 211kW
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Discussion Starter #6
If you can do the work yourself, I was amazed at how inexpensive rear calipers are. You can get a side for under 70 dollars from O'Reillys or Rock Auto.
The rear left caliper was bad. Something was broken with parking brake mechanism. They replaced the caliper. Too bad that I'm in Europe. Mopar parts here are a lot more expensive.
 

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How did they measured brake performance?
I have the same question. I'm unfamiliar with inspections. Do they have a 4 wheel dyno-esq rig?
 

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2014 Chrysler Town & Country 30th Anniversary Edition. 3.6L, 211kW
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Discussion Starter #8
I have the same question. I'm unfamiliar with inspections. Do they have a 4 wheel dyno-esq rig?
They use roller brake tester. First they weigh and then test front and rear separately.



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How does that not send abs systems into a fit?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How does that not send abs systems into a fit?
No idea. Without the roller test I would not even know that the left brake didn’t engage properly. The pedal was maybe a bit softer but that’s about it.


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