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Hello,

I did a search and found someone with similar issues but it had not been resolved.

We have a 2013 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT without Daytime Running Lights.

We have a slight flicker of the headlights and just noticed its in the interior lights too (when the van is running). As soon as you shut it off the flickering stops.

(Keep in mind: its not and ON/OFF Flicker, its a very faint "dimming" of the lights) and constant, not just when an accessory or defroster kicks on

It has been to the dealer but as we all know, that's pulling teeth and they couldn't "notice" it or replicate it. They check grounds and everything comes back normal. Also had the battery and alternator check locally at O'Reilly and they passed also.

So do I get a 3rd opinion or drop $2-300 for a battery or replace the alternator.

Thanks for the input!
 

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When that happens, disconnect alternator and see if flickering stops. If it stops, then more likely you need new alternator, or battery (less likely).
 

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Can you duplicate the light flickering/dimness fading in/out condition in your own driveway?

If yes, recommend thick 10 gauge wire with alligator clamps on each end. Run this temp wire from "---" battery post to steel part of the engine. Does light behavior change? Run this temp wire from "---" battery post to outer side of its alternator. Does light behavior change? Run this temp wire from "---" battery post to steel part of the chassis (like steel inner fender)? Does light behavior change? Run this temp wire from "---" battery post to under dash steel bracket area (like steel inner fender)? Does light behavior change? If lighting changes during these DIY tests, then its a grounding problem - in that specific area. Within one of my previous vehicles, I replaced its factory too thin battery "---" post cable with a much thicker cable. And ensured it was connected to both its inner fender and engine block contact points as well. That DIY upgrade worked great on that old technology vehicle.

Something to try.....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks so much for the suggestions. I'm hoping someone might see this who's had a similar issue and might post also.
 

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Mine does the same thing not sure why but it’s been doing it for over a year, nothing has fried or burned out, only notice it at idle my tach needle moves with the blinking of the lights also.
 

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Hi,

Same issue for me also :(
I've measured voltage on battery, it is still, but if I measure voltage in the the headlamp connector, it is moving 0.1 volts up and donw.

BR
Zoltan
 

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2013 Town & Country

Same issue and a few others.
The wife is having intermittent issues with the van not starting. If she gets a jump no problem starts right up.
Replaced the battery as it had a leak on top. Tested alternator and it reported low voltage.
Replaced alternator and reported good voltage for a few days. Now reports low voltage.

Additional symptoms:
The automatic doors won't open with the remote on both sides, sometimes not at all.
The automatic liftgate in rear won't open with remote.
Sometimes pressing the door open button by the sunglass holder also doesn't work and it flashes a warning saying "Function not available"

If you found a solution to your issue please remember to share.
 

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I would try testing or installing a new TIPM, and resetting the computer by disconnecting battery cables. Once you’ve disconnected them, zip tie the two cables together. Leave them like that for a few house, and then reconnect. I’ve heard this to be very effective on a lot of Dodge, Chrysler, and Jeep vehicles. I just replaced the headlamp switch on a buddies 2006 SXT Charger because they are faulty, and dealers never recalled the part. As well as I just read a news article, a woman having similar problems, found out it was the TIPM Box aka: (Chrysler’s fuse, and relay box) And paid like 900 to get it installed and then another 300 to have the dealer reset the computer. I hope this helps. You could also just try resetting the TIPM sensor if you don’t want to spend money on a new TIPM Sensor!
 

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I would try testing or installing a new TIPM, and resetting the computer by disconnecting battery cables. Once you’ve disconnected them, zip tie the two cables together. Leave them like that for a few house, and then reconnect. You could also just try resetting the TIPM sensor if you don’t want to spend money on a new TIPM Sensor!
No need to "zip tie them together". All you need to do is disconnect one of the cables (only one needs to be disconnected) and with that cable touch the other cable, the effect is instant, so no need to keep them touching for long time.

Forget about replacing a TIPM just for testing, this is not a good advise.

Please advise what the TIPM sensor is, never heard of it.
 
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