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Does the EGR Valve Need To Be Programmed On An 06' Town & Country Touring W/3.8L V-6

7K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  Sienile 
#1 ·
I had a mechanic tell me that the EGR valve needed to be programmed on my 2006 Chrysler Town and Country Touring 3.8 liter V-6 so it was changed and he hooked a machine to it and programmed it. He said "you got to program the performance meter to the acceleration of the vehicle". He also said that it would still run bad for a few days then it would start running fine. It has been 6 days and I'm still having the same problem so I asked another mechanic and he told me the EGR Valve does not need programmed. Does anyone know if it needs to be programmed??
 
#2 · (Edited)
I've never done anything more than disconnect the battery during EGR replacement to reset the computer when replacing an EGR valve. To reset it quickly, folks around here advise to disconnect one side of the battery terminal and short it to the other to quickly drain any remaining energy in the system and assure a full reset (Please do not attempt to short between the terminals with both terminals still connected to the battery... that will likely get ugly). Theory has it that the PCM does some initial "learning" regarding the EGR reported solenoid positions for future reference. Never heard of programming the EGR, but perhaps there's a way to trigger this learning via a diagnostic tool?

What is the problem you are experiencing?
 
#7 · (Edited)
EGR valve failures on the 3.8 have been discussed previously:


As noted in this thread, my personal experience with EGR valve failures seems like it tracks with proper engine tune/performance. If it's not something you've already done, I'd be looking to do plugs and plug wires, minimally, to assure everything is right there. Majority of my EGR failures happened subsequent to a dealer tune-up. Honestly, at this point I wouldn't trust a dealership to do even the simplest of things as I've pretty much come to realize they've screwed up pretty much everything I've ever had them do for me. Anyway, seventy-five thousand miles after that dealer tune-up, and a few EGR valves later, I did the next tune-up myself and found two spark plugs loose. Van never threw an engine code running like that, but I'm pretty convinced that was a contributor to my problems. Given that you are having Cat clogging as well, it does sound like you have some sort of combustion issue happening as well.

Also, I think many would agree that the OEM EGR valve is your best bet for the 3.8. Just make sure you get the correct one for your 2006, which I believe should be part number 4861662AF... but please do double-check me on that!
 
#8 ·
EGR valve failures on the 3.8 have been discussed previously:


As noted in this thread, my personal experience with EGR valve failures seems like it tracks with proper engine tune/performance. If it's not something you've already done, I'd be looking to do plugs and plug wires, minimally, to assure everything is right there. Majority of my EGR failures happened subsequent to a dealer tune-up. Seventy five thousand miles after that dealer tune-up, and several EGR valves later, I did the next tune-up myself and found two spark plugs loose. Van never threw an engine code running like that, but I'm pretty convinced that was a contributor to my problems. Given that you are having Cat clogging as well, it does sound like you have some sort of combustion issue happening as well.

Also, I think many would agree that the OEM EGR valve is your best bet for the 3.8. Just make sure you get the correct one for your 2006, which I believe should be part number 4861662AF... but please do double-check me on that!
I just bought a new EGR Valve, plugs and wires yesterday. I plan on putting them on after I take the catalytic converter loose. I pulled the spark plug out a few days back and the electrodes was melted down into the ceramic on 2 of the plugs and the other four were burnt up pretty bad. I have never seen plugs that burnt up! I bought 6 NGK 2314 plugs and a set of Omni Spark Wires 9614 from O'Reilly's. I also cleaned the Air Charge Temperature Sensor and the throttle body it was pretty gunked up. I also changed the air filter.
I'm hoping the catalytic converter is plugged so I can get it fixed and back on the road. Thanks for the link and your input very well appreciated.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Pulling the Cat loose may not be such a simple task. Personally, I'd go for the plugs and plug wires first to see if that takes care of it without having to pull the cat.

If you've not installed the NGK plugs yet, you may want to consider going with Champion double platinum plugs (7740/RE14PLP5) instead, which I believe are the factory specification plugs. A great many folks here are convinced that is the only way to go with these engines. Not to say that NGK is not a good brand though... and it sounds like you've selected a good NGK plug so you are probably OK either way. Just a lot of folks here who swear by the Champion plugs...

Before doing the plugs, pull the wiper tray for easier access to the rear bank... you'll be glad you did.

Oh, and if/when you do pull the cat, be prepared to replace all the bolts & nuts involved, as well as the gasket that goes there. Getting those bolts & nuts out is the fun part... after trying to back out the first one, I personally ended up just driving them in to break the heads off instead of trying to back them out. That turned out to be much easier!
 
#10 ·
I'd be suspect that the cat plugged, melted sparks, and EGR valves are SYMPTOMS of the real underlying fault.
pperry, OBDII does not magically diagnosis your vehicle. It issues fault codes, and it is up to the technician to determine what repairs are to be enacted to correct those symptoms.

Something has plugged your catalytic converter. At 86%, likely no amount of snake elixir is going to reverse that. Especially if the reason that plugged the cat is not corrected first.

PS, your counter salesman at O'Reilley is likely not necessarily a mechanic, so take their interpretation with a grain of salt. There is a reason they give you a scanner and let you take it out to your car for free, it is a great sales tool. Your neighbor with a scanner is not necessarily a mechanic either. Great intentions, but...

You will likely find that releasing back pressure from your catalytic converter is going to reveal that your cat is still plugged. Maybe, remove the upper o2 sensor for this test, that has been done rather than trying to remove the cat and run 'open header'.

**Perhaps the melted sparks WERE the underlying fault that plugged the cat...
 
#11 ·
Never encountered an EGR that needed programming on any car. That part was a scam. I wouldn't trust that mechanic anymore.

A bad cat will cause EGR issues. Do the tune up like others suggested first. If you still have issues, I'd suspect the cat.

NGK are fine plugs. Champion is the brand they came with from the factory. Either one should be fine. I always use NGK, Denso, or the OEM (Champion in this case).
 
#12 ·
I pulled the cat loose, tied it up and took it around the block. The catalytic converter is plugged. It had it's power back!! Thanks for all the input it's well appreciated!!

**
The bottom 2 bolts weren't that bad the top left was a little bit harder to get out but the top right was a pain!! A few swivel extensions later and some work the top right came loose.
If everything goes right it'll be back on the road tomorrow!!
58807
 
#14 ·
Remember, under normal circumstances, the catalytic converter should last the life of the vehicle. Something caused it to fail.
Hopefully it was the MeltDown spark plugs you have already replaced.
 
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#17 ·
My 2002 GC Sport was the best vehicle I've owned for dependability. It also had no EGR valve.
 
#18 ·
I have 2001 DGC sport I had advance check codes one of them was EGR but I haven’t put it on yet.. I’ve never heard of reprogramming it.. the only parts Ik need reprograms are PCM power control module n ECM engine control module ... I have use NKG cheaper one it and I have to replace them which under warranty, found in my manual Uses champion Double platinum..Bcz now have to buy coil pack bcz I put wrong plugs in..., u have buy the whole piece not individual ones like some vehicles has...maybe paying NKG platinum.. my personal opinion, the champions are better bcz I bought my van used 16 yrs ago, just replaced my OE plugs, like 3 months and my car ran better on the old plugs then now.... ur looking at 16 yrs of old plugs compare to rough idle and eating gas more on the NKGs.... it just my van being picky lol....I hope u best and ur van up n running better...,
 
#19 ·
Champion Double Platinum seem to work best but I would expect NGK plugs to work quite well. What # NGK plug was used and have you checked the anti-seizeless installation.
 
#21 ·
After 16 years, not only are the spark plugs due to be changed, but likely the ignition wires too.
The silicon insulation breaks down over time and heat. Even though they feel nice and flexible, they are probably leaking the spark and especially after you were pulling, moving them. They may even be touching the hot exhaust or each other....

The reason for the 'double platinum' is that the DP spark plugs have that hard platinum tip and 'puck' or 'disc' and therefore they do not erode like a regular copper spark plug on our particular ignition system.

If your van runs poorly after changing the spark plugs, right away after changing the spark plugs, then it was not the spark plugs but something else. ANY SPARK PLUG should run great for a while (as long as it fits in the hole, is long enough to get into the cylinder and it has the proper gap).
Now, after a while, they may not run so good as they wear out...

Champion Double Platinum spark plugs only need to be changed every 100,000 miles (as long as the engine is running properly)
 
#23 ·
Just skimming through the thread and it seems like the situation has hopefully been handled but can’t the actual metal egr tube get fouled up w/so much carbon that it wouldn’t allow the egr device to work properly. Leading to a situation of replacing a good egr valve when all that was needed was a tube cleaning?
 
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