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I had a mechanic tell me that the EGR valve needed to be programmed on my 2006 Chrysler Town and Country Touring 3.8 liter V-6 so it was changed and he hooked a machine to it and programmed it. He said "you got to program the performance meter to the acceleration of the vehicle". He also said that it would still run bad for a few days then it would start running fine. It has been 6 days and I'm still having the same problem so I asked another mechanic and he told me the EGR Valve does not need programmed. Does anyone know if it needs to be programmed??
 

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I've never done anything more than disconnect the battery during EGR replacement to reset the computer when replacing an EGR valve. To reset it quickly, folks around here advise to disconnect one side of the battery terminal and short it to the other to quickly drain any remaining energy in the system and assure a full reset (Please do not attempt to short between the terminals with both terminals still connected to the battery... that will likely get ugly). Theory has it that the PCM does some initial "learning" regarding the EGR reported solenoid positions for future reference. Never heard of programming the EGR, but perhaps there's a way to trigger this learning via a diagnostic tool?

What is the problem you are experiencing?
 

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I've never done anything more than disconnect the battery during EGR replacement to reset the computer when replacing an EGR valve. To reset it quickly, folks around here advise to disconnect one side of the battery terminal and short it to the other to quickly drain any remaining energy in the system and assure a full reset (Please do not attempt to short between the terminals with both terminals still connected to the battery... that will likely get ugly). Theory has it that the PCM does some initial "learning" regarding the EGR reported solenoid positions for future reference. Never heard of programming the EGR, but perhaps there's a way to trigger this learning via a diagnostic tool?

What is the problem you are experiencing?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
???? what did you try to say?
Sorry it took me a few to get back with you, I'm on mandatory 10hr days 7 days a week at work right now. I want to start by saying I appreciate your response.
The problem started with the check engine light coming on it was the EGR valve. I changed it then about a week and a half later it started losing power. It got worse and worse very quickly over the weak. A mechanic hooked it up to a machine and it's said that the Catalytic Converter was 83% clogged which was backing up into the EGR Valve making the EGR Valve go bad. So he had me run three bottles of CataClean through it.
My wife took it back about a week later because it had no improvement, it was getting worse. He said the EGR Valve needed to be programmed that's why it was running like bad still. He programmed it and said that it would start running better within 2 days another 5 days past and it was running worse the check engine light come back on. I scanned it and the EGR valve was bad again. So he told me to unhook the battery cables and change the EGR valve it would save what he had programmed. I changed the EGR Valve again and still the same problem.
I decided over the next 2 days I am
going to take the catalytic converter loose and tie it up, then take it for a ride around the block to see if I have power back. I figure if I have power back then the catalytic converter still has to be clogged which is causing the EGR Valves to go bad. If that doesn't work I don't have any other ideas on what could be causing the problem.
Also I bought a Chilton's Book yesterday and it does not mention programming the EGR Valve.
 

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EGR valve failures on the 3.8 have been discussed previously:


As noted in this thread, my personal experience with EGR valve failures seems like it tracks with proper engine tune/performance. If it's not something you've already done, I'd be looking to do plugs and plug wires, minimally, to assure everything is right there. Majority of my EGR failures happened subsequent to a dealer tune-up. Honestly, at this point I wouldn't trust a dealership to do even the simplest of things as I've pretty much come to realize they've screwed up pretty much everything I've ever had them do for me. Anyway, seventy-five thousand miles after that dealer tune-up, and a few EGR valves later, I did the next tune-up myself and found two spark plugs loose. Van never threw an engine code running like that, but I'm pretty convinced that was a contributor to my problems. Given that you are having Cat clogging as well, it does sound like you have some sort of combustion issue happening as well.

Also, I think many would agree that the OEM EGR valve is your best bet for the 3.8. Just make sure you get the correct one for your 2006, which I believe should be part number 4861662AF... but please do double-check me on that!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
EGR valve failures on the 3.8 have been discussed previously:


As noted in this thread, my personal experience with EGR valve failures seems like it tracks with proper engine tune/performance. If it's not something you've already done, I'd be looking to do plugs and plug wires, minimally, to assure everything is right there. Majority of my EGR failures happened subsequent to a dealer tune-up. Seventy five thousand miles after that dealer tune-up, and several EGR valves later, I did the next tune-up myself and found two spark plugs loose. Van never threw an engine code running like that, but I'm pretty convinced that was a contributor to my problems. Given that you are having Cat clogging as well, it does sound like you have some sort of combustion issue happening as well.

Also, I think many would agree that the OEM EGR valve is your best bet for the 3.8. Just make sure you get the correct one for your 2006, which I believe should be part number 4861662AF... but please do double-check me on that!
I just bought a new EGR Valve, plugs and wires yesterday. I plan on putting them on after I take the catalytic converter loose. I pulled the spark plug out a few days back and the electrodes was melted down into the ceramic on 2 of the plugs and the other four were burnt up pretty bad. I have never seen plugs that burnt up! I bought 6 NGK 2314 plugs and a set of Omni Spark Wires 9614 from O'Reilly's. I also cleaned the Air Charge Temperature Sensor and the throttle body it was pretty gunked up. I also changed the air filter.
I'm hoping the catalytic converter is plugged so I can get it fixed and back on the road. Thanks for the link and your input very well appreciated.
 

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Pulling the Cat loose may not be such a simple task. Personally, I'd go for the plugs and plug wires first to see if that takes care of it without having to pull the cat.

If you've not installed the NGK plugs yet, you may want to consider going with Champion double platinum plugs (7740/RE14PLP5) instead, which I believe are the factory specification plugs. A great many folks here are convinced that is the only way to go with these engines. Not to say that NGK is not a good brand though... and it sounds like you've selected a good NGK plug so you are probably OK either way. Just a lot of folks here who swear by the Champion plugs...

Before doing the plugs, pull the wiper tray for easier access to the rear bank... you'll be glad you did.

Oh, and if/when you do pull the cat, be prepared to replace all the bolts & nuts involved, as well as the gasket that goes there. Getting those bolts & nuts out is the fun part... after trying to back out the first one, I personally ended up just driving them in to break the heads off instead of trying to back them out. That turned out to be much easier!
 

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I'd be suspect that the cat plugged, melted sparks, and EGR valves are SYMPTOMS of the real underlying fault.
pperry, OBDII does not magically diagnosis your vehicle. It issues fault codes, and it is up to the technician to determine what repairs are to be enacted to correct those symptoms.

Something has plugged your catalytic converter. At 86%, likely no amount of snake elixir is going to reverse that. Especially if the reason that plugged the cat is not corrected first.

PS, your counter salesman at O'Reilley is likely not necessarily a mechanic, so take their interpretation with a grain of salt. There is a reason they give you a scanner and let you take it out to your car for free, it is a great sales tool. Your neighbor with a scanner is not necessarily a mechanic either. Great intentions, but...

You will likely find that releasing back pressure from your catalytic converter is going to reveal that your cat is still plugged. Maybe, remove the upper o2 sensor for this test, that has been done rather than trying to remove the cat and run 'open header'.

**Perhaps the melted sparks WERE the underlying fault that plugged the cat...
 

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Never encountered an EGR that needed programming on any car. That part was a scam. I wouldn't trust that mechanic anymore.

A bad cat will cause EGR issues. Do the tune up like others suggested first. If you still have issues, I'd suspect the cat.

NGK are fine plugs. Champion is the brand they came with from the factory. Either one should be fine. I always use NGK, Denso, or the OEM (Champion in this case).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I pulled the cat loose, tied it up and took it around the block. The catalytic converter is plugged. It had it's power back!! Thanks for all the input it's well appreciated!!

**
The bottom 2 bolts weren't that bad the top left was a little bit harder to get out but the top right was a pain!! A few swivel extensions later and some work the top right came loose.
If everything goes right it'll be back on the road tomorrow!!
58807
 

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Given you're posting this at night, bet the neighbors hate you right now. :p
 

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Remember, under normal circumstances, the catalytic converter should last the life of the vehicle. Something caused it to fail.
Hopefully it was the MeltDown spark plugs you have already replaced.
 

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I’m so happy that neither my 3.3 or 3.8 have egr from the factory. Love those 2002-2003s
My 2002 GC Sport was the best vehicle I've owned for dependability. It also had no EGR valve.
 

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I have 2001 DGC sport I had advance check codes one of them was EGR but I haven’t put it on yet.. I’ve never heard of reprogramming it.. the only parts Ik need reprograms are PCM power control module n ECM engine control module ... I have use NKG cheaper one it and I have to replace them which under warranty, found in my manual Uses champion Double platinum..Bcz now have to buy coil pack bcz I put wrong plugs in..., u have buy the whole piece not individual ones like some vehicles has...maybe paying NKG platinum.. my personal opinion, the champions are better bcz I bought my van used 16 yrs ago, just replaced my OE plugs, like 3 months and my car ran better on the old plugs then now.... ur looking at 16 yrs of old plugs compare to rough idle and eating gas more on the NKGs.... it just my van being picky lol....I hope u best and ur van up n running better...,
 

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I have 2001 DGC sport I had advance check codes one of them was EGR but I haven’t put it on yet.. I’ve never heard of reprogramming it.. the only parts Ik need reprograms are PCM power control module n ECM engine control module ... I have use NKG cheaper one it and I have to replace them which under warranty, found in my manual Uses champion Double platinum..Bcz now have to buy coil pack bcz I put wrong plugs in..., u have buy the whole piece not individual ones like some vehicles has...maybe paying NKG platinum.. my personal opinion, the champions are better bcz I bought my van used 16 yrs ago, just replaced my OE plugs, like 3 months and my car ran better on the old plugs then now.... ur looking at 16 yrs of old plugs compare to rough idle and eating gas more on the NKGs.... it just my van being picky lol....I hope u best and ur van up n running better...,
Champion Double Platinum seem to work best but I would expect NGK plugs to work quite well. What # NGK plug was used and have you checked the anti-seizeless installation.
 

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Champion Double Platinum seem to work best but I would expect NGK plugs to work quite well. What # NGK plug was used and have you checked the anti-seizeless installation.
It was the V-power , one of the workers @ advance auto said I need Double platinum ones ....They said the cheaper NKGs had more nickel in it compared to D platinum that had more cooper.. I think ..... I’m not 💯 sure, it been while .. I’m not sure on anti seized thing ur talking about sorry...
 
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