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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Rick brought up some good points. Checking for corrosion and moisture are definitely something you can do yourself. If you find some, that could be the source of your problem. I doubt it is, but definitely won't hurt to check; and would save quite a bit if it is it.

The dealer won't do anything more than scan for codes and look for obvious issues for their inspection. The codes you gave tell me that it's definitely an issue with the TIPM or its wiring. Since its wiring is very well protected that's unlikely (unless the above mention corrosion which still isn't super likely).
Thank you Gentlemen. I have looked inside the top box which looks normal. I will release the top box and look under it. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Update-Saturday-Replaced cruise brake switch, engine cuts off now with key, brake lights, cruise seems to work however I still have the brake cruise switch error code( P0571)with the unknown codeB210D and an ABS dash warning light on. Removed red + cable from TIPM and unsnapped it from mount. I could not find any corrosion, loose wires anywhere. Unplugged relays from TIPM and re-plugged them back in. I am letting T&C sit for a couple of hours to see if it drains down the new battery. The new switch might take a while to self-adjust. Thank you to everyone for your help.
 

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So after resetting the codes you're down to just those 2? Not sure what the brake switch code is about since you replaced the switch, but here's the troubleshooting guide for that code. Seems the B210D is an issue with the alternator and/or its drive circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Thank you Sienile for that info. Update- Sun- Replaced newly installed brake switch that must have been faulty or used. Instructions said the switch could only be installed 1 time. So we got rid of 11 error codes and are down to 1-B210D and monitoring of the battery system to watch for parasitic voltage drain. There are no warning lights now and the transmission shifts out of park. Wish there was a voltage meter on the dash somewhere. Thank you to Sienile and everyone else that has helped with the T&C. I think I will skip the dealer appt and keep on trying to solve the remaining problems.You guys are great!
 

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Glad it wasn't a TIPM issue. All those codes you started with really had me thinking it was going to be. Seems you just need to check alternator function. When it's running, what voltage can you measure on the battery? Anything below 13.5 is concerning. Since it's saying it's weak it should probably be trying to charge at max power, 14.1.

I've posted alternator troubleshooting on here before (really need to start bookmarking my own posts :p ) as have others. If you find the voltage out of spec there is a field control and sense wire on the alternator connector. One powers on to activate the alternator, the other tells the PCM how much of a charge it should expect. Issues with these wires or the PCM's control circuit can also cause charging issues. Hopefully it's just the alternator or a dud battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Update- Sun Evening-All the error codes, warning lights, locked in park are back. Maybe it is the TIPM. The fuses look good and there is no corrosion. Battery is new and reads 14.4 v when charging. Thank you Sienile. I will try to find a local shop that can repair, replace the TIPM.
 

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Thank you Sienile. Will start calling shops. Do you think getting the dealer to do their $149 scan will at least tell me what the problem is?
If it was me, I'd stay far away from the dealer. The better mechanics are at independent shops and can do anything the dealer can in this instance. And with the dealer there is always the possibility they may find "another problem", if you know what I mean. I went in for a clock spring replacement and when I got the van back all of a sudden I had a leaking oil pan that was fine a few days before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Update-5/26/21
Finally see some problems. Engine off, key out-Battery connected. I stayed with the t&c checking for parasitic current draw. Every few minutes there are clicking sounds like something is trying to start. The clicking is coming from the passenger side + driver side-alternator/compressor and tipm. At least something sounds not normal. It repeats every few minutes and may be why the battery goes dead overnight. Will continue parasitic battery drain check tomorrow. Thanks for the help everybody.
 

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That confirms a TIPM issue. Clicking is the HVAC relay (soldered onto TIPM circuit board) triggering and the compressor clutch kicking in. Nothing else near the compressor would make a click caused by something electrical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
That confirms a TIPM issue. Clicking is the HVAC relay (soldered onto TIPM circuit board) triggering and the compressor clutch kicking in. Nothing else near the compressor would make a click caused by something electrical.
Here is the sound Engine off clicking noise. Is there a relay on the TIPM I could replace and solve this problem? It is difficult to pinpoint the clicking because it comes from the driver's and passenger's side and the TIPM. Thank you for all your comments Sienile.
 

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That doesn't sound like a compressor clutch. Sounds more like the throttle body doing its calibration check. That's on the top center over the back side.

Strange... I wonder if the ignition is glitching and turning on the PCM. Does your scanner read WIN codes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
That doesn't sound like a compressor clutch. Sounds more like the throttle body doing its calibration check. That's on the top center over the back side.

Strange... I wonder if the ignition is glitching and turning on the PCM. Does your scanner read WIN codes?
I don't think so. I have a mobile tech that might be able to. It is a unique sound. 1st click is in the TIPM, next click is everywhere, then the other sound.
 

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Sound is very much like the throttle body, so I'm fairly certain that's what it is, but the PCM power circuit has to be active for that. Get a code scan on all vehicle systems. There may be codes you can't read with a normal scanner that may give a clue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Sound is very much like the throttle body, so I'm fairly certain that's what it is, but the PCM power circuit has to be active for that. Get a code scan on all vehicle systems. There may be codes you can't read with a normal scanner that may give a clue.
Update-Unplugged all the tipm connectors and re-plugged them back in. No problems seen Tested for parasitic drain inconclusive. Clicking noise has slowed down since I tapped on tipm and reconnected all connections. A piece of black electrical tape was left between one connector and tipm. I removed it. That proves someone has been in the tipm before me. Getting a mobile scan tomorrow before I order a tipm just to be safe. A Chrysler dealer has a new tipm on sale online for $406 which is approx 250 under dealer list and it is new, not rebuilt. I think I will order that one as a rebuilt from Mak is $385, new -$589 It takes about a week to get it from anyone. I really appreciate your help and hope we find another clue pointing towards a new tipm.
 

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A piece of black electrical tape was left between one connector and tipm.
Odd. Was it on the pins or just around the side? It could be that a previous owner/mechanic thought that the issue was a loose connection on that connector and tried to shim it. Did you notice damage to either the connector or socket? Which connector was it, if you remember?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
Odd. Was it on the pins or just around the side? It could be that a previous owner/mechanic thought that the issue was a loose connection on that connector and tried to shim it. Did you notice damage to either the connector or socket? Which connector was it, if you remember?
I don't think black tape would be much of a shim, however I guess it could be. There is one of the levers that you push down missing a small piece of plastic however the connection seems secure. I may have done that trying to unplug the connection. Here are the photographs. I would have to take the tipm out again to tell you which connection. A mobile auto electronics tech is coming today around noon and I hope we can finalize the diagnosis however he thinks it is the tipm and may only be able to provide more detailed scans than my little Fixd scanner.Thank you Sienile. There has to be a
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solution somewhere. Latest scan after
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hooking everything back up shows 8 codes down from 12. U110A,transmission range sensor, auto shift manual mode, ignition switch position, vacum Pump Control, fuel pump control, lost communication with body. The clicking is now less frequent. Thanks again
 

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I'd replace that connector. Seems it was wrapped to try to hold it together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I'd replace that connector. Seems it was wrapped to try to hold it together.
The connection is fine. It looks like someone did try to shim it with tape for whatever reason. Mobile Tech scanned everything and said I need a new tipm. It showed low voltage going from the tipm to most of the modules all over the car. doors , everything which confirms that the tipm is bad. Throttle body still tried to cycle through with keys out, ignition switch checked out ok. I can not wait 3-4 weeks for a tipm order(back ordered)so I was lucky to find a dealer that had one he didn't even know about. Drove 200 miles and picked it up. I will install it tomorrow and hope I do not have to have a dealer flash it. I will install it, turn the key on, wait 2-4 minutes, turn key off, turn key on and hopefully everything will be back to normal. Wish me luck and thank you for all your time on this. Drinks are on me tomorrow.
 

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Manual says to wait a bit before switching off.
Insert the ignition key and turn it to the “RUN” position and wait twelve seconds. The TIPM will collect the necessary vehicle configuration and VIN data from the CCN and PCM at this time. After twelve seconds turn the ignition key to the “OFF” position and then back to the “ON” position and verify proper vehicle systems operation.
Going beyond the 12 seconds won't hurt anything. It may fail if done too quick.
 

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