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I just realized that there are no 10,000 foot elevation in the southeast. Overlook above the obvious, yet not a scenic overlook.

So you are not having this due to down hill braking, it is an event occasionally happening around town to the point that you are not trusting the vehicle. Yeah, there is something odd happening.

I'm soupscribed.

It is not hard to use engine braking on flat land, it is just not but rarely needed...
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Thanks Atwell, I will give it a try seeing how it's already here.
Dan
I just realized that there are no 10,000 foot elevation in the southeast. Overlook above the obvious, yet not a scenic overlook.

So you are not having this due to down hill braking, it is an event occasionally happening around town to the point that you are not trusting the vehicle. Yeah, there is something odd happening.

I'm soupscribed.

It is not hard to use engine braking on flat land, it is just not but rarely needed...
The Van started life on Maui and made numerous trips up and down Mt Haleakala, the first event happened on it's last trip up the mountain. I shipped it to Spokane and drove it home to FL without any issues. A week after I got it home was the first 100 mile trip that resulted in the vibrations and heating. That was when I decided to replace everything, there have never been any problems with the rear discs.

Some minor heating around town in heavy traffic but the 2 - 100 mile trips were on HWY travel. I have made many more HWY trips of 100 miles or more that were not a problem.

Dan
 
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The Permatex brake lube you mentioned is fine. I find that the anti-seize hangs around longer, it's still there in a year's time.
I actually use Permatex high temperature copper anti-seize, not 3M. It comes in handy for many jobs..
 

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My van had a caliper lock up while in town one day. It ruined the pads and rotor by the time I got it home. I replaced the calipers, pads, and rotors, and it has been fine ever since.

The odd thing is, the old caliper looked to have been replaced before, and didn't seem stuck when I took it off. I don't get it either.
 

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Your brake pads can tell you a story. Check for uneven wear.
 

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Try this:

1. Find a location where you can drive around without using your brakes.

2. Measure front and back temps before you take off.

3. Drive around without using your brakes, and then coast to a stop.

4. Take temps again.

5. Report results to Jeepman.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Try this:

1. Find a location where you can drive around without using your brakes.

2. Measure front and back temps before you take off.

3. Drive around without using your brakes, and then coast to a stop.

4. Take temps again.

5. Report results to Jeepman.
Thats a good idea, but the problem may be finding the location! I'll have to think about that.

Thanks
Dan
 

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Mall on a pandemic Sunday morning.... round and round
 

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Naw, too many seagulls. :)
 
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Discussion Starter #31
OK I modified the request today, I decided to hit a couple of junk yards today just to get a mix of local and HWY driving for a total of 44 mile trip. The braking I had to do was done with as little brake pedal pressure as possible, I did downshift and use the engine to slow done as much as possible. There were 3 legs of this trip one of 21 miles, the second was 5 miles and the third was 16 miles.

First leg started with rotor temperature of 78 F, after 21 miles front rotors were left was 140 F and right 145 F. The rear rotors were 125 each side. After an hour rest temps were 92 from 81 rear.

Second leg was 6 miles fronts were 130, rears 130.

The third leg was mostly HWY 17 miles, fronts 160 rears 145.

I thought these numbers were pretty close to what they should be as the front brakes do most of the work anyways.

I may try driving around the mall that is about 5 miles from my house this weekend. I will do it early so there won't be much traffic getting there. I don't expect anything other than low temperatures because the brakes won't really heat up.

Thanks
Dan
 

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Dan, I wanted you to be in a place where you wouldn't be using your brakes at all, as I wanted to see if the brakes were dragging and heating on their own.

From your test, your results are normal, which, I'm sorry to say, doesn't solve you problem.
 

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Before a trip and before it get's all 'hot n bothered'
If you hands off the wheel and brake... Does it pull, shimmy, clunk, click, shutter, pulse, or groan?
 

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Before a trip and before it get's all 'hot n bothered'
If you hands off the wheel and brake... Does it pull, shimmy, clunk, click, shutter, pulse, or groan?
All of the above. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Dan, I wanted you to be in a place where you wouldn't be using your brakes at all, as I wanted to see if the brakes were dragging and heating on their own.

From your test, your results are normal, which, I'm sorry to say, doesn't solve you problem.
I understand what you are trying to do it's just hard finding a place. There is a close by neighborhood that may be my best bet to do that but I'm going to have to deal with speed bumps and slide through stop signs to do it. How many miles of no braking do I need to go?
The mall option might be the best but I need to get there first.

I need to remove the pads, clean, file, and re-grease the pads also. I wonder if I have damaged the pads with excessive heat? I have ordered some Akebono Proact Ultra Ceramic pads if the current ones look damaged. OEM pads are ridiculously expensive.

Thanks again
Dan
 

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Pads should be okay. They are working now. Doesn't hurt to give them a sanding if they are glossed.
Uneven pad wear will indicate an external problem - pins/caliper bracket/pad backing plate/dirt/rust/lack of lubricant.
Normally that is addressed before replacing parts.
 
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Discussion Starter #38
I had planned on scuffing them up if they looked OK, probably get to the van this weekend. I need to do some work on my daughters 240 over the next couple of days.
Thanks again
Dan
 
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Discussion Starter #39
OK I have cleaned, filed, and lubricated the pads, calipers and slide pins on all 4 corners. I drove around about 8 miles without using the brakes and found the left front rotors had elevated temperatures compared to the other 3. The other rotors had temperatures ranging from 92 to 99 degrees F

The left front rotors at 1 mile were 110 F, 3 miles 120 F, 5 miles 120 F, and 130F at 7 miles. I drove the car home a mile or 2 using the brakes and the Left front was 145 F and the right one 135 F.

The Left front Was consistently elevated, it looks like the caliper may be dragging? Or could it be something else like the master cylinder?

All pistons were closed with a C clamp and none seemed to be hard to do.

I suspect if driven 100 plus miles it would overheat again.

Thanks
Dan
 

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Have you tried bleeding the fluid in the front brakes? "Wet" fluid can sometimes cause issues like this, but it's rare. The moisture isn't as keen on moving as the fluid and it could boil in the lines causing a pressure increase. Brake fluid is cheaper than a caliper and if you haven't changed it in a while it could be time.

And about the "no brakes" test Jeepman was talking about, since the issue is in the front brakes you can use the parking brake (straight lines only!) to stop instead of coasting.
 
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