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More noise=more power. That's the basic principle behind these "upgrades". But toss in buzz words like carbon fiber and some dyno charts and it will fool a lot of people.

Yes, especially when people say "carbon fiber" instead of "carbon fiber looks"

I went with carbon fiber, an the intake is the only one that can be made to work.

 

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Check out "Sienile" on the forum, he has built an aftermarket cold air intake. Technically the factory air intake is a cold air intake. It feeds from below the bumper beam on the right side. Personally, I would like to do a resonator box delete. Some dyno tests on the last chrysler 200, show a 5 hp increase with deletion of the intake resonator. I really like what this person did.


View attachment 57426

You can also change the lower intake manifold. The latest 3.6 manifold on Grand Cherokee has 20% larger ports. You can find info on Jeep and/or Charger forums. I believe I read it was worth 5 to 10 hp on a dyno.

5 hp improvement is going to be hard to feel. But the two mods combined together, might be a noticable improvment.
That person is me. I since deleted the flex tube as well. It's a "crude" setup currently, but the difference in response and mid range punch are extremely noticeable.
58006

I plan on hard piping it and adding a better filter within the factory box as the factory filter design leaves a lot to be desired.
 

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That person is me. I since deleted the flex tube as well. It's a "crude" setup currently, but the difference in response and mid range punch are extremely noticeable. View attachment 58006
I plan on hard piping it and adding a better filter within the factory box as the factory filter design leaves a lot to be desired.
I've seen pics of factory boxes gutted to better fit a cone filter within. That kind of modification with smooth piping is better (colder) than a short pipe with a cone filter within the engine bay.
 

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That person is me. I since deleted the flex tube as well. It's a "crude" setup currently, but the difference in response and mid range punch are extremely noticeable. View attachment 58006
I plan on hard piping it and adding a better filter within the factory box as the factory filter design leaves a lot to be desired.

Resonator is there for a reason. No way that you get more power by eliminating the resonator, unless you remove everything else after the resonator.

Resonator is tuned to that particular intake, including air filter. You remove it, and you loose H.P. and efficiency.

Being noisier doesn't means being more powerful.
 

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Being noisier doesn't means being more powerful.
Ain't that the truth? Just ask an owner of a loud Harley. :)

Yeah, that resonator helps scrub off air flow back pressure.

Speaking of resonators, my van doesn't have an exhaust resonator due to the wheelchair modifications. I wonder if that changes anything?
 

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Ain't that the truth? Just ask an owner of a loud Harley. :)

Yeah, that resonator helps scrub off air flow back pressure.

Speaking of resonators, my van doesn't have an exhaust resonator due to the wheelchair modifications. I wonder if that changes anything?
Unless you like to eat Camaros for breakfast, you should not notice any loss of power. (y)
 

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Resonator is there for a reason. No way that you get more power by eliminating the resonator, unless you remove everything else after the resonator.

Resonator is tuned to that particular intake, including air filter. You remove it, and you loose H.P. and efficiency.

Being noisier doesn't means being more powerful.
The resonator kills flow by directing airflow back into itself to kill noise. It is not "tuned" for performance, it is "tuned" to kill noise.

Manufacturers have to ride a line of performance, efficiency, and "comfort", if you honestly think that exhaust system that has 3 cats, 2 resonators, and a muffler or that intake with it's giant resonator, flex tubing, and tiny filter opening are tuned for performance I don't know what to tell you.

The resonator delete is a dyno proven mod for Pentastar engines, netting improvements across the rpm range, with great bumps to midrange power. I'm sorry you hate mods, maybe just scroll past the modifications write-ups instead of coming in and spouting off your baseless BS to everyone.
 

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I figured it wasn't making a lot of difference, the van thromps when asked to.

Back in the 90s a friend of mine had a Camaro, I had a 1975 Ford E-150. That van was faster than my friend's Camaro, but I'm sure it didn't handle as well.
 

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I read that the noise reduction was just a byproduct of the resonator's function. I'll admit I'm no expert but if what I read about resonators and preventing intake air colliding with trapped air near the air intake valves is true, it does make sense.

I love upgrade mods that improve performance, but shy away from mods that don't seem too well founded. I'm a fan of Flowmaster mufflers over stock mufflers. That sort of thing. :)

I'm not trying to be argumentative, just pessimistic.
 

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The resonator kills flow by directing airflow back into itself to kill noise. It is not "tuned" for performance, it is "tuned" to kill noise.

Manufacturers have to ride a line of performance, efficiency, and "comfort", if you honestly think that exhaust system that has 3 cats, 2 resonators, and a muffler or that intake with it's giant resonator, flex tubing, and tiny filter opening are tuned for performance I don't know what to tell you.

The resonator delete is a dyno proven mod for Pentastar engines, netting improvements across the rpm range, with great bumps to midrange power. I'm sorry you hate mods, maybe just scroll past the modifications write-ups instead of coming in and spouting off your baseless BS to everyone.
I don't know where you get the idea I don't like mods. I do, but useful mods. I do own a couple of race cars, among others.

A common misconception among many auto enthusiasts and hot-rodders is that the air intake resonator is there for the sole purpose of muffling the sound of the engine on an older car. While dampening the sound of the engine is one of the purposes of the air intake resonator, it is not the primary purpose. The primary purpose of the air intake resonator is to inhibit pressure wave harmonics, which causes air pressure in the engine and restricts the amount of airflow through the RPM spectrum. In effect, the air intake resonator, via its expansion chamber, slows down the air emerging from the engine. This reduces the engine intake noise and increases the amount of horsepower available.
Surce: https://www.reference.com/world-view/air-intake-resonator-c953d81b49ffe3d1
 

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There is a huge amount of engineering involved in intake and exhaust tuning in modern vehicles. They have to work together with variable intake and exhaust timing. Some intakes have variable length runners as well. That is why the gains are so minimal and in some cases one can lose HP and TQ at certain RPM ranges. Top HP number means nothing for street driven vehicles.
But the modders seems to be stuck in the 80s and 90s when these cheap mods did make a significant difference in a lot of cases.
 

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The Town and Country 3.6 liter is rated at 283HP, how does Chrysler get 305HP in the Challenger and the RAM pickup?
 

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The Town and Country 3.6 liter is rated at 283HP, how does Chrysler get 305HP in the Challenger and the RAM pickup?
Different intake and exhaust systems, mild tuning differences. Internally the engines are identical until the PUG engines.

I don't know where you get the idea I don't like mods. I do, but useful mods. I do own a couple of race cars, among others.
Maybe because you always come chime in on dyno proven mods claiming they're bunk?

Not sure how gains across the RPM range isn't considered a "useful" mod anyway. Sure you won't see big power gains, but seeing a 9ft-lb bump is nothing to scoff at, especially on an engine that lacks low end to begin with.
 

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Different intake and exhaust systems, mild tuning differences. Internally the engines are identical until the PUG engines.



Maybe because you always come chime in on dyno proven mods claiming they're bunk?

Not sure how gains across the RPM range isn't considered a "useful" mod anyway. Sure you won't see big power gains, but seeing a 9ft-lb bump is nothing to scoff at, especially on an engine that lacks low end to begin with.
Is not apples to apples, read my post:

Resonator is there for a reason. No way that you get more power by eliminating the resonator, unless you remove everything else after the resonator.

That is not your system.

Then they do the testing with hood open.
 

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Different intake and exhaust systems, mild tuning differences. Internally the engines are identical until the PUG engines.
This one will work better than yours, except is not CAI, it will breath hot air from the engine compartment, same as the one on your video, it work fine with the hood open, but not in real life driving:

 

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Discussion Starter #38
Yes, especially when people say "carbon fiber" instead of "carbon fiber looks"




In that quote I was talking about break pads
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Oh, and you should add speed holes to the hood.
Misunderstood! (y)
On the intake I went to my dealership and talked with the head mechanic, his info to me was to get an meteral not metallic so the air would not pickup the heat from the piping, the pipe in the finder is still there.. after the shop reopens I'll get it tested an post it here..
 
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