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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,


I'm new to the so i hope someone will not beat me up too much for a boring usual question.

my van, a Plymouth voyager 3.0 1996 is giving me problems with the cluster.
it is odd and doesn't match anything I've seen so far on the web.
The lights all work but, as soon as i turn on the ignition, the oil temperature gauge and the gas gauge move to half and speedometer never works. This hes been going on for tew months now and i wanted to address it. I took out the cluster to check for a cold solder but it looks good to me and anyhow i resoldered anyway....still did not help.


what else should i check?

i know that i have a relay that sometimes i have to tap on with my foot because it will not allow blinkers to work...figured not biggy looking that still works as of today.

rarefully the cluster works for few minutes comoletely fine but then it goes off again.

any advice would ve greately appreciated
Thank you very much
 

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If my memory serves me correctly, the instrument panel in the 3rd gen suffers from bad solder joints. I think the problem was where the main connector is soldered to the back of the panel.

You have some other problem with a relay that you nudge with you foot? Perhaps there is a problem with the fuse/realy box and that could be the sourse of all your problems. I would address that problem first.
 

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The issue can be traced back to the new solder used back in that era to eliminate lead contamination. This issue was very common with the Gen3 vans and 99 times out of 100 can be cured by pulling the panel and "touching" each solder point with a hot solder iron just long enough to reliquify the solder.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have liquified and added salder to all the connectors on the main connector... But still doesn't go. Il take a look at the fuse box but i would like to know if anyone ever seen the same issue o had. Usually I've seen people reporting that the day does not work at all but... Not just the two gauges half way and no speedometer... It looks... Constant
 

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Wasn't there an instrument cluster recalibration procedure that can be done on these vans, or was that introduced in the 4th generation? I remember reading about it somewhere.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Not sure... The speedometer still doesn't work... The gauges for oil temp and gasoline are just at half way cluster lights work normally... No power to the mileage... It looks like a "message"... Something like" if the gauges do this" than is "that".
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you very much, I'll give it a try. I bought my van used and i don't have the diagram of the relay box area... Can anyone tell me which one is the iod fuse?
 

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3rd Gen Plebeian
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager Rallye
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Try reflowing the solder the "proper" way, at least as proper as you can do at home.

Google "Reflow Solder", it's possible to do it with a kitchen oven, a toaster, or best a heat gun. Just need to be careful not to melt the plastic connectors. PCBs are manufactured by sticking all the components on, then blasting it in an oven to flow all the solder joints.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have a soldering iron and I'm putting to do electronic repairs but i am not sure how to focus the results in what it could be... Witch pin could cause that?
 

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3rd Gen Plebeian
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager Rallye
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I have a soldering iron and I'm putting to do electronic repairs but i am not sure how to focus the results in what it could be... Witch pin could cause that?
If you reflow the whole board in an oven, it won't matter which pin.
Or just go get another cluster, I have 2 spare clusters that work fine; my original(I swapped to white gauge faces T&C Limited), and the cluster I stole the Autostick display out of.:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I can go to a junk yard and see what I can find there I would just like to pinpoint what the printer is before I go shopping
 

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Could very well be the cluster itself, wiring from the BCM or the BCM itself. If you've reflowed the solder using a soldering iron that will be good. There are Youtube videos on this specific subject on Caravans/T&Cs. I've done that numerous times as an electronics tech. There is a cluster self test for your 96..... >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SELF-DIAGNOSTICS
The instrument clusters are equipped with a self diagnostic test feature to help identify electronic problems. Prior to any test, perform the Self-Diagnostic Test. The self diagnostic system displays instrument cluster stored fault codes in the odometer display, sweeps the gauges to the calibration points, and bulb checks the warning indicators. When the key is in the ON position with the engine not running, the MIL will remain illuminated for regulatory purposes.

To activate the Self-Diagnostic program:
With the ignition switch in the OFF position, depress the TRIP ODOMETER RESET button.
Continue to hold the TRIP ODOMETER RESET button until Sof and a number (software version number (i.e. Sof 3.2) appears in the odometer window then release the button. If a fault code is present, the cluster will display it in the odometer display. When all fault codes have been displayed, the cluster will display “end” in the odometer display. Refer to the INSTRUMENT CLUSTER DTC'S table to determine what each trouble code means. INSTRUMENT CLUSTER DTC'S DTC DESCRIPTION
100.0 LOOP-BACK FAILURE
100.1 ABS COMMUNICATION FAULT
100.2 BCM COMMUNICATION FAULT
100.3 EATX COMMUNICATION FAULT
100.4 FCM COMMUNICATION FAULT
100.5 ORC COMMUNICATION FAULT
100.6 SBEC/DEC/MCM COMMUNICATION FAULT
200.0 AIRBAG LED SHORT
200.1 AIRBAG LED OPEN
200.2 ABS LED SHORT
200.3 ABS LED OPEN
200.6 EL INVERTER TIME-OUT
200.7 EATX MISMATCH
400.0 EEPROM READ/WRITE FAILURE
400.1 IMPROPER POWER DOWN DETECTED
CALIBRATION TEST
The CLUSTER CALIBRATION table contains the proper calibration points for each gauge. If the gauge pointers are not calibrated, a problem exists in the cluster. If any gauge is out of calibration, replace the cluster.

CLUSTER CALIBRATION SPEEDOMETER CALIBRATION POINT
1 0 MPH (0 KM/H)
2 20 MPH (40 KM/H)
3 60 MPH (100 KM/H)
4 100 MPH (160 KM/H)
TACHOMETER
1 0 RPM
2 1000 RPM
3 3000 RPM
4 6000 RPM
FUEL GAUGE
1 EMPTY
2 1/4 FILLED
3 1/2 FILLED
4 FULL
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
1 COLD
2 1/4
3 3/4
4 HOT


ODOMETER SEGMENT TEST
If a segment in the odometer does not illuminate normally, a problem exists in the display.

ELECTRONIC TRANSMISSION RANGE INDICATOR SEGMENT TEST
If a segment in the transmission range indicator does not illuminate normally, a problem exists in the display.
 

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Your flasher relay is an easy fix. Pop the cover off then reflow the solder securing the contacts on the bottom to the internal circuit board. Should save you $50 or more.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Your flasher relay is an easy fix. Pop the cover off then reflow the solder securing the contacts on the bottom to the internal circuit board. Should save you $50 or more.
Thank you very much, I'll try that
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Could very well be the cluster itself, wiring from the BCM or the BCM itself. If you've reflowed the solder using a soldering iron that will be good. There are Youtube videos on this specific subject on Caravans/T&Cs. I've done that numerous times as an electronics tech. There is a cluster self test for your 96..... >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SELF-DIAGNOSTICS
The instrument clusters are equipped with a self diagnostic test feature to help identify electronic problems. Prior to any test, perform the Self-Diagnostic Test. The self diagnostic system displays instrument cluster stored fault codes in the odometer display, sweeps the gauges to the calibration points, and bulb checks the warning indicators. When the key is in the ON position with the engine not running, the MIL will remain illuminated for regulatory purposes.

To activate the Self-Diagnostic program:
With the ignition switch in the OFF position, depress the TRIP ODOMETER RESET button.
Continue to hold the TRIP ODOMETER RESET button until Sof and a number (software version number (i.e. Sof 3.2) appears in the odometer window then release the button. If a fault code is present, the cluster will display it in the odometer display. When all fault codes have been displayed, the cluster will display “end” in the odometer display. Refer to the INSTRUMENT CLUSTER DTC'S table to determine what each trouble code means. INSTRUMENT CLUSTER DTC'S DTC DESCRIPTION
100.0 LOOP-BACK FAILURE
100.1 ABS COMMUNICATION FAULT
100.2 BCM COMMUNICATION FAULT
100.3 EATX COMMUNICATION FAULT
100.4 FCM COMMUNICATION FAULT
100.5 ORC COMMUNICATION FAULT
100.6 SBEC/DEC/MCM COMMUNICATION FAULT
200.0 AIRBAG LED SHORT
200.1 AIRBAG LED OPEN
200.2 ABS LED SHORT
200.3 ABS LED OPEN
200.6 EL INVERTER TIME-OUT
200.7 EATX MISMATCH
400.0 EEPROM READ/WRITE FAILURE
400.1 IMPROPER POWER DOWN DETECTED
CALIBRATION TEST
The CLUSTER CALIBRATION table contains the proper calibration points for each gauge. If the gauge pointers are not calibrated, a problem exists in the cluster. If any gauge is out of calibration, replace the cluster.

CLUSTER CALIBRATION SPEEDOMETER CALIBRATION POINT
1 0 MPH (0 KM/H)
2 20 MPH (40 KM/H)
3 60 MPH (100 KM/H)
4 100 MPH (160 KM/H)
TACHOMETER
1 0 RPM
2 1000 RPM
3 3000 RPM
4 6000 RPM
FUEL GAUGE
1 EMPTY
2 1/4 FILLED
3 1/2 FILLED
4 FULL
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
1 COLD
2 1/4
3 3/4
4 HOT


ODOMETER SEGMENT TEST
If a segment in the odometer does not illuminate normally, a problem exists in the display.

ELECTRONIC TRANSMISSION RANGE INDICATOR SEGMENT TEST
If a segment in the transmission range indicator does not illuminate normally, a problem exists in the display.
Can this work even if the odometer does not light up? The only thing that works normally are the lights on the dashboard, the gauges for oil and gas go to the halfnof their movement as soon as i turn on the ignition and they don't move from there. Tachometer never works.
 

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Can this work even if the odometer does not light up? The only thing that works normally are the lights on the dashboard, the gauges for oil and gas go to the halfnof their movement as soon as i turn on the ignition and they don't move from there. Tachometer never works.
If there is any indication the cluster is getting power then yes it should work. Whether it works correctly is another story. In that case as is stated you need a new cluster. When you intitiate the test if, after a few seconds, something appears to move or light up it indicates you have intitiated the test correctly. If not then try again. Once the test has started you can release the trip button.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
i resaldered the whole board.l today with my air soldering station at work...few spots were really dirty and cleaned them with alcohol... I'll fix the flasher today and i left the iod fuse off since yesterday....i think after this...i should get something. What is on the other end of the wire that connects to the dashboard?
 

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Mine is the ground wire wayyyyyyyyyy underneath the dash, up under the cluster. I have done everything and more listed in this forum and have decided to just live with it. It's about an 8-hour process just getting the dash disassembled is why I haven't pursued that yet. Even replaced the BCM twice. Everything else runs fine. Hope yours is only the solder joints as I resoldered this current instrument cluster 3 times. ( IT's my 3rd one.:))
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Can you give me any documentation of where that geound is located?...the dashboard is pretty much off at this pont lol
 
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