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Cap/Plug lines going to rear air conditioner???

17K views 19 replies 10 participants last post by  Wadelouky 
#1 ·
I have a 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan with 205,000 miles. My rear air conditioner is leaking my R-134a back behind the passenger side rear tire. I don't want to spend a lot of money to get the rear air working, and I heard you could just plug the lines going to the rear air, recharge your system, and your front air will work just fine.

Has anyone tried doing this??? If yes, please provide details and results.
Any suggestions or ideas appreciated!
 
#2 ·
I don't see why you couldn't do that as long as your 'plugs' were pressure-tight. How much would spliced-in pressure hoses cost, though?

The first three Chrysler vans we had (84, 93, and 96) were C/Vs (cargo vans) and did not have rear air. The front seats areas were fine but it took a long while to cool everything down, just from the front.

PLEASE evacuate the system first, though.?
 
#4 ·
I don't see why you couldn't do that as long as your 'plugs' were pressure-tight. How much would spliced-in pressure hoses cost, though?

The first three Chrysler vans we had (84, 93, and 96) were C/Vs (cargo vans) and did not have rear air. The front seats areas were fine but it took a long while to cool everything down, just from the front.

PLEASE evacuate the system first, though.?
I found something on EBay for $37.50... that will save me a ton of money to get it fixed (about $1,000)!!! I never use the rear air anyway since I usually have all the seats down and am hauling mountain bikes, camping gear, or hauling stuff to our cottage. Here is link to ebay...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-AC-bl...18AAOSwBDlavYuF:sc:USPSFirstClass!48152!US!-1

It is pretty much a really easy task to install. Here is a link to a video showing how...



The above video is showing an install using a similar product, but thier product is about twice the price.

Also, my preasure gauges are showing zero preasure so I am thinking I don't need to evacuate the system before installing the caps, since all the R134 has already leaked out???

Comments and suggestions anyone???
 
#3 ·
How do you identify where it is leaking? Is it that bad that you can hear, or see the refrigerant escaping?

How tough would it be to get in to inspect that potential leak? and once there you may be able to repair it as easily as you could isolate that rear evaporator and associated lines.

Now, that being said, you are the best to evaluate your van's condition, life expectancy and the usefulness of that rear system.

On the passenger side, under the hood, back at the firewall... I remember seeing a joint that sends the system refrigerant aft towards the rear as well as plumbing that sends it to the forward evaporator. (I am working from memory here, I'll look on my 2002 after a while) but that vicinity would be my highest choice to block off the rear vapor cycle plumbing.
I would cap off both sides, just because if I decide to restore the rear, at least there will be less parts damaged. A/C parts hate to be exposed to atmosphere.

Use the appropriate caps and plugs if they are available. Install them correctly and charge accordingly. Of course, you are going to have to figure out the new capacity of the refrigerant charge or charge by the sub-cooling method.
 
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#5 ·
How do you identify where it is leaking? Is it that bad that you can hear, or see the refrigerant escaping?

How tough would it be to get in to inspect that potential leak? and once there you may be able to repair it as easily as you could isolate that rear evaporator and associated lines.

Now, that being said, you are the best to evaluate your van's condition, life expectancy and the usefulness of that rear system.

On the passenger side, under the hood, back at the firewall... I remember seeing a joint that sends the system refrigerant aft towards the rear as well as plumbing that sends it to the forward evaporator. (I am working from memory here, I'll look on my 2002 after a while) but that vicinity would be my highest choice to block off the rear vapor cycle plumbing.
I would cap off both sides, just because if I decide to restore the rear, at least there will be less parts damaged. A/C parts hate to be exposed to atmosphere.

Use the appropriate caps and plugs if they are available. Install them correctly and charge accordingly. Of course, you are going to have to figure out the new capacity of the refrigerant charge or charge by the sub-cooling method.
My air was no longer working and there was a big oily puddle just behind the rear passenger wheel. When I crawled under I could see the leak was coming from the A/C lines that go up through the rear floor board into the van.

My van has about 205,000 miles and I only plan on keeping it maybe less than a year before selling it, so I don't want to spend the money to fix the rear air as long as I can get the front air to work with a simple plug.

The one thing I like about the fix in the video is that it is very easy to do, and if the person I sell it to wants to fix the rear air it is easy to reconnect the original lines. There is no cutting of line or hoses.
 
#16 ·
Ooh! Ask me!! Me!! My hand is up!!
Problem with our 4th gens, is the a/c lines bracket under the pass. sliding door doesn't get moisture cooked off by the cat. Everybody with a rear a/c unit should get under their van and remove that bracket and come up with a different way to strap/brace those lines. I made a spiderweb of zip ties,, looks rinckey dink, but lines are secure.
Now for the fun and important stuff.
I had that puddle in front of my pass rear tire, and no cooling. My high pressure line/small diameter was blowing out r134.
1) I measured the OD of the line that was leaking, along with the large diameter/return line just for good measure with my calipers.
2) Then, I got online to a place local to me, called "online metals". They give dimensions of various aluminum tube, properties, yada yada. And, you can order up short pieces, like 6 inches, maybe less. I got a few different pieces of both sizes.
3) Then, I band sawed the most promising size, in half lengthwise, test fitted around my leaking line, and it fit better than a glove.
4) Got a bunch of fuel injector hose clamps. I chose these cuz they don't have a flat spot on them like radiator hose clamps. That, and for this application, they make a miserable job that much more difficult! Practice test fitting them onto the split alum tubing fitted around the a/c line. Have this down pat!! Be able to put 3-5 clamps on tight on minutes!
5) Get some of "Mr Sticky's" "VibraBond" epoxy. Unlike regular epoxy, which is brittle, "Mr Sticky's" has some elasticity/flexibility.
6) Clean the a/c lines with acetone really well. REALLY well!
7) Mix up enough "Mr Sticky's" to coat both halves of your split tube line clamp. Quick.
8) place split tube line clamp over leaky spot of your a/c line and start attaching and tightening your fuel injector line clamps, starting from the mid point of the split tube, out to the ends.
9) let sit of a day.
10) go to a/c repair shop and ask them to evac and recharge your system.

This is what I did, and has been holding for a year. Parts wise, cost probably about $30. Time spent,, uhh,,,.. But, hopefully, someone else will benefit off my experience..
 
#17 ·
Ooh! Ask me!! Me!! My hand is up!!
Problem with our 4th gens, is the a/c lines bracket under the pass. sliding door doesn't get moisture cooked off by the cat. Everybody with a rear a/c unit should get under their van and remove that bracket and come up with a different way to strap/brace those lines. I made a spiderweb of zip ties,, looks rinckey dink, but lines are secure.
Now for the fun and important stuff.
I had that puddle in front of my pass rear tire, and no cooling. My high pressure line/small diameter was blowing out r134.
1) I measured the OD of the line that was leaking, along with the large diameter/return line just for good measure with my calipers.
2) Then, I got online to a place local to me, called "online metals". They give dimensions of various aluminum tube, properties, yada yada. And, you can order up short pieces, like 6 inches, maybe less. I got a few different pieces of both sizes.
3) Then, I band sawed the most promising size, in half lengthwise, test fitted around my leaking line, and it fit better than a glove.
4) Got a bunch of fuel injector hose clamps. I chose these cuz they don't have a flat spot on them like radiator hose clamps. That, and for this application, they make a miserable job that much more difficult! Practice test fitting them onto the split alum tubing fitted around the a/c line. Have this down pat!! Be able to put 3-5 clamps on tight on minutes!
5) Get some of "Mr Sticky's" "VibraBond" epoxy. Unlike regular epoxy, which is brittle, "Mr Sticky's" has some elasticity/flexibility.
6) Clean the a/c lines with acetone really well. REALLY well!
7) Mix up enough "Mr Sticky's" to coat both halves of your split tube line clamp. Quick.
8) place split tube line clamp over leaky spot of your a/c line and start attaching and tightening your fuel injector line clamps, starting from the mid point of the split tube, out to the ends.
9) let sit of a day.
10) go to a/c repair shop and ask them to evac and recharge your system.

This is what I did, and has been holding for a year. Parts wise, cost probably about $30. Time spent,, uhh,,,.. But, hopefully, someone else will benefit off my experience..
But do you still put the manufacture recommended amount of r134a in after blocking off half of the AC system?
 
#19 ·
A friend is getting the rear air deleted on her 2010 Dodge GC tomorrow. Rear evaporator is leaking. National Radiator is doing it for around $300.00 I believe she said. It's a common job for them to do. They also say you will hardly notice the difference as the amount of air from the overhead vents isn't much compared to what comes out the front.
 
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#20 ·
Ummm... the rear air puts out a lot in the last 3 vans we’ve had. I’ve fixed 2 and am working on fixing our current one. If no one rides back there no big deal, if people do ride either back row they may be quite uncomfortable without rear air.

all of this is based on where you are using your van of course. Florida is different than say Colorado... obviously.
 
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