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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering if anyone's done this job before and would have any helpful tips. I'm basically working off youtube vids but I just dropped the pan for fluid and filter change so was wondering if I'd have to repeat that to do the solenoids? Doesn't look fun by any means but looks more time consuming than anything. I had a P0765 solenoid code that was intermittent but then became constant after the pan drop, used atf+4 and a wix filter for that so not thinking it was because of those.
 

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Wix has had some issues with filters that filter too good. :p Specifically oil filters for the Pentastar. They would actually cause low oil pressure beyond the filter. The upside is you could be sure you weren't circulating dirty oil. Bad side is lack of oil pressure ruins things faster than dirty oil. Not sure if their A/T filters have issues like that.

For the code you listed low fluid can be a cause. Since the issue became constant after a fluid change, double check your fluid. Also says dirty fluid could be an issue, but we know that's not it... unless that Wix filter actually is putting a stranglehold on the amount of fluid it can pull. Other causes amount to a valve body swap like you're planning on.

Haven't done it myself, but it's not hard. Everything should be under the front pan and I don't think the bottom has to be removed. You'll lose a good bit of fluid opening it up. If you installed a trans pan with a drain plug you can avoid a big mess.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I did the work and had reinstalled the valve body with new solenoid pack installed but now the shift lever is stuck and won't move out of park. Am trying to understand how the mechanism works as unfortunately I did not document the positions prior to disassembling everything. Have to resolve that before putting the outer pan on and hopefully all will be well
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is the mechanism that allows it to shift out of park electronic? I read some other threads that seemed to indicate as such, just wondering as my battery is still removed pending the trans front pan reassembly
 

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There's a shift cable on the top side. Maybe the cable got knocked off somehow. If that's not it, you got to go back in because you didn't do something right or have a bad part.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There's a shift cable on the top side. Maybe the cable got knocked off somehow. If that's not it, you got to go back in because you didn't do something right or have a bad part.
It appears the mechanism is engaged electronically, when I tried the override push thing near the gear shift it moved freely. Everything else looks good, I've spent more time than I should probably Making sure everything is kosher because I have no intent on going back in there anytime soon hopefully lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Looks like I lost the gamble. All back together complete with new solenoid pack and the same code as before is back, starts up immediately in limp mode. Onward to more chasing

Edit: scratch that, seemed I had to clear codes multiple times before it actually stuck and didn't start in limp mode. The difference in shift quality after the repair is incredible. Thanks for the help
 

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It appears the mechanism is engaged electronically, when I tried the override push thing near the gear shift it moved freely. Everything else looks good, I've spent more time than I should probably Making sure everything is kosher because I have no intent on going back in there anytime soon hopefully lol
Is it still having the issue coming out of park? If so, it may be your interlock switch. It's what keeps you from coming out of park unless the key is turned and the brake is pressed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Is it still having the issue coming out of park? If so, it may be your interlock switch. It's what keeps you from coming out of park unless the key is turned and the brake is pressed.
No issues there anymore, not sure what I did but it actually moves between selections more smoothly than before
 

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Probably was the transmission screaming for help because of the codes. :p
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Probably was the transmission screaming for help because of the codes. :p
Lol limp mode was enough screaming for me, very annoying dropping out of gear at cruising speed! At first startup the first couple times I went to engage reverse, the van sputtered and stalled out, has not happened since but was startling to be sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thought I had it, appears I don't. Took a short ride for gas, shifted real nice like, then when I restarted after fueling and went to take off, was a slight shudder and back to limp mode with the same P0765. This van gonna drive me bonkers but I figure it I can do the solenoid pack can get to whatever the real cause is
 

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Looks like it's time to break out the multimeter. Here's the manual diagnostic procedure for that code.

DTC - P0765
Symptom Descriptor - Ud Solenoid Circuit

Probable Causes
(T59) Underdrive Control Circuit Open
(T59) Underdrive Control Circuit Shorted to Ground
(T59) Underdrive Control Circuit Shorted to Voltage
(T59) Underdrive Solenoid Control Circuit Open
(T59) Underdrive Solenoid Control Circuit Shorted to Ground
(T59) Underdrive Solenoid Control Circuit Shorted to Voltage
Powertrain Control Module (PCM)Related DTCs Present
Related Transmission Control Module (TCM) Power Input DTCs Present
Transmission Solenoid/Pressure Switch Assembly
Transmission Solenoid/Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) Assembly
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Looks like it's time to break out the multimeter. Here's the manual diagnostic procedure for that code.

DTC - P0765
Symptom Descriptor - Ud Solenoid Circuit

Probable Causes
(T59) Underdrive Control Circuit Open
(T59) Underdrive Control Circuit Shorted to Ground
(T59) Underdrive Control Circuit Shorted to Voltage
(T59) Underdrive Solenoid Control Circuit Open
(T59) Underdrive Solenoid Control Circuit Shorted to Ground
(T59) Underdrive Solenoid Control Circuit Shorted to Voltage
Powertrain Control Module (PCM)Related DTCs Present
Related Transmission Control Module (TCM) Power Input DTCs Present
Transmission Solenoid/Pressure Switch Assembly
Transmission Solenoid/Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) Assembly
I appreciate the pdf, is very helpful but would be more so if I knew what I was doing lol. I have a basic digital multimeter and don't really know how to go about it though I'm familiar with the general schematic from PCM box/TIPM/Solenoid Pack connector.

My problem has recently worsened in the sense that I can't even get full functionality initially on startup, the van enters limp mode first thing at key on before I even crank it over. Can tell when it changes to limp mode because the trans gear display in the EVIC flickers for a brief sec. Has to point towards something electrical in nature IMO. I'm still trying but the extended downtime has made it more difficult on account of wife and I recently being called back to work.
 

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The wires are numbered to match pins on the connectors. Go from one pin on every wire to every other pin that wire connects to and check it in the lowest resistance (ohm) mode setting. In that diagram, the main power circuit T16 is the only one with multiple connections. The rest are just point-to-point. It gives a threshold of 5 ohms in the procedure, but circuits will likely measure about 3.5 ohms. If the resistance is above 5 ohms or you never get a reading, you've found a problem.

High resistance is usually a corroded or burnt wire, sometimes a stretched one. Not getting a reading means the wire is broken.

You should also check for a short to power or ground by checking the resistance between the pin and both battery terminals. (A high ohm ground reading may be normal in some cases.) You'll need to do that part with one end of the wire plugged in and then the other.

You have to weed out the "transmission simulator" steps, we obviously won't have access to that. Checking everything is a long process. It will probably help to print an extra copy of the wire diagram and mark off each wire as you confirm it's good. If everything checks out, the damaged wire is probably in the transmission. Checking each pin on the transmission connector against the transmission body may identify the problem, if that's the case.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I replaced the known bad battery today. I made progress in the sense that it now doesn't start up in limp mode guaranteed.

I've conducted "tests" where I leave the parking brake on while putting transmission in D and turning on the autostick so the number shows up next to the D, the number disappears after limp mode is triggered. I've left it in this state for several minutes with no limp mode engagement, though if I go to take a drive, I'll shift through the gears approaching 45mph or so but then when I've slowed enough, limp mode will engage.

I hear slight sounds coming from the valve body, like a electrical clicking of a sort similar to how a relay might. I'm considering removing the valve body again and assessing if anything went wrong with my solenoid pack installation, it almost sounds as if a solenoid is bound up somehow but I'm not sure how that could happen, it only goes in one way.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I went for a short ride, did some highway and in town driving to try to see if limp mode would engage. It stayed in normal operating mode the whole time. I'm pretty impressed that a battery can do this as I haven't really diagnosed or tried to change much otherwise. Guess I'll see if this trend continues, if not I may consider removing the valve body again to investigate the solenoid pack.
 

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Have you tried manually shifting while driving? That may give you an idea of what gear is having the issue.

Given it's gone into limp mode, it must have thrown a code. Have you checked it? Is it the same or different?

It's also possible you got a defective part. Is the solenoid pack new or remaned? What manufacturer?

If you end up going back in, check the solenoids to see if any sludge or particles may be restricting flow to or from them.


:geek: Well, just typed all that and got a notification of your last post. Leaving it in case your problem returns.

That's great that it's working good now. I really think a bad battery would have more issues than just transmission limp mode. It could definitely cause that, but it just seems odd that it would be the only issue. Perhaps a connector was loose and you unplugging and re-plugging them while checking them made a better connection. :unsure:
 
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Have you tried manually shifting while driving? That may give you an idea of what gear is having the issue.

Given it's gone into limp mode, it must have thrown a code. Have you checked it? Is it the same or different?

It's also possible you got a defective part. Is the solenoid pack new or remaned? What manufacturer?

If you end up going back in, check the solenoids to see if any sludge or particles may be restricting flow to or from them.


:geek: Well, just typed all that and got a notification of your last post. Leaving it in case your problem returns.

That's great that it's working good now. I really think a bad battery would have more issues than just transmission limp mode. It could definitely cause that, but it just seems odd that it would be the only issue. Perhaps a connector was loose and you unplugging and re-plugging them while checking them made a better connection. :unsure:
I ordered the part from Rockauto, was Mopar branded and I thought it was new but according to this paper it came with it seems to be a reman.

I haven't tried shifting manually or checking codes, will do that tomorrow. I appreciate all your help through this struggle if it's truly over, and I hope it is!
 

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Well, if I'd take a chance on remaned, it would definitely be factory remaned. Given the reputation of these transmissions for being weak, I would personally try to avoid anything but new from a reputable brand if not Mopar.

I'm just surprised no one else has jumped in to help. Guess they see me posting excerpts from the manual and are like "He gots this." :p Don't mind helping out as much as I can. But after 2 weeks of this, I know we both hope it's over.
 
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