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5th Generation - Brake Types/Modifications
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As it happens, the front brakes (OEM single-piston caliper for 2011) did in fact last exactly 18 months, and required replacement in January. The rear brakes held out until March, and required rotors and pads. The passenger side rear caliper then seized and caused that brake to drag and overheat the pads and rotor. 154,000 miles on OEM calipers is pretty reasonable, so I had to re-do the rear brakes with new rear [single piston] calipers, another new rotor for the passenger side, new pads for the rear (again) and had the driver side rear rotor (2 months old) resurfaced.
Basically, for the cost of new front calipers, rotors, pads, 4 larger wheels, 4 new tires, and 1 new larger spare and tire, I can probably replace the brakes a half-dozen or so times. I'd love to have larger wheels and tires, but the cost is prohibitive for me, so I'm stuck with just swapping out brakes as needed. Averaging around 17000 miles a year on our van, I'm needing to replace brakes every 18 months. YMMV.
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So I originally did my 2012 when it had 60k miles on it. That was 3 years ago. All four corners with durlast parts. 40k miles later here I am doing them again. I had a rear brake shield dragging so when I looked at that I noticed the brakes were close to being done. I was shocked at how cheap calipers were, and since we lived in the northeast, I did the whole set up. Pads, rotors and calipers. Parts were $300 bucks. The calipers were about 120 for both. It was a no brainer. Going in todo the fronts this weekend. FYI, I used the Orielly house brand parts. Not sure I will be doing the calipers. Will check to see how the boots are. I have a pulsating vibration when I brake hard. I know its that front rotors that are getting bunged up.
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Some 2012, most 2013 (I would say all 2013+ but someone here swears his still have std. brakes).
If your vehicle have 17" wheels and double piston front calipers, then it has HD brakes.
2014 Chrysler Town & Country 30th Anniversary Edition. 3.6L, 211kW
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It has 17" wheels but I'm not sure about pistons. Can I visually detect which ones they are without taking anything apart?
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Yes, just look through the front wheels, you should be able to see either on or two pistons.
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Just ordered a set of those myself. I was looking for a performance rotor with slots. Looked at several including EBC and PowerStop. Wasn't too fond of the drilled through rotors because of how they tend to crack at the holes, so that left me with just a few EBC choices. I had completely forgot about BrakePerformance.com. At about 2/3 the price as the EBC slotted and dimpled rotors with a 3 year warranty, I can get the BP.com slotted and dimpled with lifetime warranty. The also explicitly warranty warping and cracking. Hopefully I never need the warranty, but sure nice to have it.
I have 55,000 on my 2016 and it is showing some signs of brake noise/shudder. It isn't bad yet so I'll probably give it until next summer but I've started looking at parts. Rock Auto and RAYBESTOS pads and rotors will probably be my choice. For my "heavy duty" style brakes pads and rotors all the way around is around $200 delivered. I'm going to wait and see the condition of my calipers. It would be cheaper to get them on Rock Auto but not knowing if they will be needed I'm going to take flyer.
Has anyone had any negative experiences with the coated Raybestos and their Element 3 pads?
Has anyone had any negative experiences with the coated Raybestos and their Element 3 pads?
Pretty sure I remember seeing that Raybestos produces the OEM brake pads and rotors. Should be pretty good.
The set I just ordered from BP.com was under $260 shipped. Rotors have lifetime warranty. Haven't heard any complaints from the people on here that have installed them. Just another option to consider.
The set I just ordered from BP.com was under $260 shipped. Rotors have lifetime warranty. Haven't heard any complaints from the people on here that have installed them. Just another option to consider.
BrakePerformance.com I mentioned it it the post right above your last.
I agree with the above post BUT I have been looking for a specific answer regarding the "small" to "big" brake kit for 6 months - Are the brake hozes the same? I have done dozens of hours of research and I still come up with different answers - If there is any brake guru out there, Is there any difference between a 2016 GC SE brake hozes (12" brakes) vs. a 2016 GC R/T (13" brakes) hoses? To all my research they use the same brake hozes? Please reply!
Yep, hoses are the same.
Parts you must swap for the conversion are rotors, calipers w/ bracket and pads, dust shields (optional, SD ones cover majority), master cylinder (optional, SD has smaller fluid reservoir), and wheels (remember the spare!).
Parts you must swap for the conversion are rotors, calipers w/ bracket and pads, dust shields (optional, SD ones cover majority), master cylinder (optional, SD has smaller fluid reservoir), and wheels (remember the spare!).
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Spare tire should be the same, I would think.
Nope. SD spare is 16", HD is 17". Same as the rest of the wheels.
If you forget to swap it you'll be SOL when you need it.
Thanks for the info - I have front and rear Power Stop 13" HD kit coming from Rock Auto - bought the dust shields also from Rock Auto - One additional question: I have a 2016 GC that came stock with 17" wheels - will the spare be 17"?
It should be, if it has one. Seems the fix-a-flat kit was a more popular option in the later years. Any 2014+ should have a 17" spare, it it does.
PS: That white's not staying that way for long. Brake dust is a bitch on these.
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