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3rd gen > all others
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Took a few pics of my van today, after putting in my new black headlights. Looks like my passenger side headlight mount must be bent from whatever accident this van was in before I got it. It has a new replacement front steel inner bumper, a Keystone bumper cover, and a TYC headlight with the front end having been repainted. I have clearanced both wheel wells for the Explorer wheels mounted on 12mm thick hubcentric spacers (for a Dodge Challenger from ebay) with extended thread lug nuts. The tires might be a tad bigger than the Michelin tires I use for winter, even though they are the same size. I got rid of the running board last week, as it was nothing but rust dust. Everything clears now, it drives pretty straight for not having an alignment, but I think the tires need to be balanced.

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3rd gen > all others
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1993 PGV LE 3.3 Cargo
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I KNEW I could have put the alloys from my Grand Marquis on my van.
But I didn't. Dagnabbit!

But to quote a great philosopher, "Damn, son!"
 

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3rd gen > all others
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1996-1998 Ford Explorer Limited wheels on my van, and I had to use 12mm spacers on the front to clear the brake calipers. I also had to grind out the center hole a little to fit the van, and slightly enlarge the lug holes to fit extended thread cone-seat lug nuts to the Ford Taurus studs in my special aftermarket Timken hubs (stud heads are countersunk into the back of the hub flange). Timken doesn't seem to make them this way anymore.

I actually used Grand Marquis 16" steel rims for my blizzaks on my vans, and also had to grind the centerhole bigger. They even fit on the rear of our 2011 Sienna, which is only supposed to fit a minimum 17" wheel!

I love driving something different. I caught a tow truck driver looking at my van as he passed by from a stoplight.
 
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The only way a spacer kit like this would work on the front of a van is to place the spacers between the engine cradle and the body. This would require you to lengthen the radiator hoses, trans line etc...
To jack up the back, since the Gen4 still has leaf springs is very straight forward.
It can be done with U bolts/shackles or spacers between the spring mounts and body.
U bolts and shackles dont apply to the back of our Van's. Unless you're talking about the leaf shackles, that's it.
 

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I haven't measured how much mine gained in lift yet. I used Pacifica strut assemblies and lift spacers between the strut and body.
View attachment 57868

I used the spacers on the left, 1 1/4" thick. The aluminum spacers were from the front of a 3rd gen handicap van, and are 2" thick.

View attachment 57869

I also added my rear helper spring half-leafs to try to lift the rear, or at least keep it from sagging.

View attachment 57870

My rear wheel clearance differs by 1" from side to side now. Less than half a tank of gas, so I doubt that is making the difference. I'll try shimming the lower side's spring to get some of that inch back.
Do the 3rd gen fit the 4th gen?
 

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3rd gen > all others
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Strut spacers? The strut mounting holes are a little closer together on the 3rd gen than the 4th gen. The polyurethane spacers would need a couple of the holes in each drilled to fit the 3rd gen. The aluminum spacers are just thick aluminum collars that fit around the circular raised center of the upper mounts, and they did fit on the 4th gen struts.
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You just have to find long enough studs to press into the upper mounts. I tried fitting a Pacifica strut in with the aluminum spacer, but the control arm wouldn't drop down far enough to get the strut assembly in and the bolts through the steering knuckle. The steel reinforcement plate would've needed to have been removed and reinstalled after assembly, or notched to allow the arms clearance to droop.
 
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2008 5th gen SE. Braunability junkyard sourced struts and hats, 2.5" could spring spacer. Home built track arm relocation in rear (1" drop at body, 1 "drop at axle) loadassist rear shocks with 3"more travel/height extended. 245/75/16. Relocated rear brake line hangers, dropped 1" . Moog sway bar bushings, heavier composite. 3" ground clearance gained, no fouling on struts, body panels, etc. Cant go wider on tires because we like to use the back doors lol.
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20210107_162657.jpg
 

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those are some BIG tires, reminds me of the nissan NV vans
 

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3rd Gen Plebeian
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager Rallye
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2008 5th gen SE. Braunability junkyard sourced struts and hats, 2.5" could spring spacer. Home built track arm relocation in rear (1" drop at body, 1 "drop at axle) loadassist rear shocks with 3"more travel/height extended. 245/75/16. Relocated rear brake line hangers, dropped 1" . Moog sway bar bushings, heavier composite. 3" ground clearance gained, no fouling on struts, body panels, etc. Cant go wider on tires because we like to use the back doors lol. View attachment 60895 View attachment 60895
60915
 
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Rear leaf spring spacers for more pics. 2" Lift on front, 1" spacers, 225/70r16 AT+M, rear untouched for now. Surprisingly very capable off-road. Wanted to keep the tires somewhat narrow to reduce friction and thus not affect acceleration too much but still improve on contact patch. Tires are over 28" in diameter. I might go up to 225/75r16s next. 235 is excessive imo, and will definately rub the wheelhouse in the back on full offroad flex, even with 1" spacers.

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Rear leaf spring spacers for more pics. 2" Lift on front, 1" spacers, 225/70r16 AT+M, rear untouched for now. Surprisingly very capable off-road. Wanted to keep the tires somewhat narrow to reduce friction and thus not affect acceleration too much but still improve on contact patch. Tires are over 28" in diameter. I might go up to 225/75r16s next. 235 is excessive imo, and will definately rub the wheelhouse in the back on full offroad flex, even with 1" spacers.
thank you for allowing a van to live the life mine wishes it could
 

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thank you for allowing a van to live the life mine wishes it could
Just get proper rubber and do it. Maybe not a dry riverbed like I went through, but even with fwd you'll get some good traction with the right rubber. My awd only really kicked in when I was starting to move in deep sand.

You can pick up some Mud terrains on ebay super cheap. As long as you don't go over 225 wide, you wont have a drastic impact on fuel economy.

It will live a good life. I haven't fixed up the bodywork yet, I was solely focused on replacing the entire suspension minus rear spring bushings, rebuilding the motor, electrical, ac, cooling , everything.

Interior and body next.
 

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As long as you don't go over 225 wide, you wont have a drastic impact on fuel economy.
i've got a question that you might know the answer to, i haven't really been able to find a solid answer for this

what's the widest and largest diameter wheel i can fit before it starts rubbing without any lift or spacers?
 

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i've got a question that you might know the answer to, i haven't really been able to find a solid answer for this

what's the widest and largest diameter wheel i can fit before it starts rubbing without any lift or spacers?
Assuming you have OE alloys ( 6.5 inch wide, et40ish), The widest and largest is 225/70r16. Reason: Tire is really close to the rear wheelhouse and on any suspension flex, it will rub and chew on the wheel house.

If you hit a dip, the front wheels can hit the inner fender liners towards the firewall and chew a nice hole in the liners.

1" spacers or different offset wheels take care of the rear wheel well issue, but the fenderliner tire strike on a heavy dip remains without a lift. I am contemplating 2" spacers on just the front for the heck of it.

Now, this is assuming you don't notice a dip in the road and hit it at 40mph + If you slow down for it, it will be fine.

Fenderliners are however cheap. So, that being said, 225/70r16 is the max on stock height. With a lift, and spacers, personally, I wouldn't go past 225/75r16 on stock rims for the same issues. 235s look aggressive, but you also have to take into account the rear sliding door. Currently, as it sits, my rear sliding door inner doorpanel is .5" from hitting the rear tire on each side.

TL : DR Go for 225/70r16 and just be more wary of heavy dips in the road, especially if your shocks are old and you wont have any issues with a nice increase in ground clearance


These look good and they aren't chinese either, but you can get chinese Mud terrains for sub $400.

Like these:

I am thinking of these next, as they are much more aggressive than my current Hankook AT+Ms, which apparently are NLA now.

 
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