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Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder LEVY. Some think Trump is beautiful. :)

Not very uplifting conversation for the poor guy that wants to make his minivan different. Maybe you all should take a look at this video:

Modifications = safety issues and functionality issues whether in be loud sub woofers or lift kits. Some modifications may even keep the doors from opening. :)

If they think it looks cool, then I guess it is ok.
 

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Yeah, let it ride. :)
 

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My van does look better now. My wife even commented one night that it looks "badass" as she looks at it when pulling into the driveway. It's all wheel drive, so I wanted it to LOOK like it's AWD. I wanted it to stand apart from all the other vans out there, but not in a bad way. I'm not done with it yet, but the suspension lift is done (not going higher).

The van's front used to sit so low that the headlights couldn't even light up down the road to see that far at night. That's what made me want to at least level the front to the rear. I thought the van had stock struts and they were too low, so I ordered the polyurethane spacers. Then I found out Pacifica struts would fit, so I bought a pair of those. Then my front tire started eating the front fender on hard bumps and potholes, and I started to wonder if someone put quick-struts on the van. When I finally did the swap/lift, I found out the struts WERE quick struts, and a low quality at that. If the van would have had factory height struts to begin with, I might not have even lifted it.

I still need to find shorter sway bar end links to fit, so I don't push the van around curves/corners. Even as it is, it's safer driving than before because I don't have to constantly avoid potholes, slow way down for dips in the road or railroad tracks, or take left turns painfully slow. My headlights shine down the road as they were meant to, increasing nighttime safety. Feels stable on the freeway at 70mph just as before. It even stops better without so much nose-dive (because old struts had weak springs, weaker than stock). It drives like my 3rd gen now, just slightly taller. I haven't gotten ABS to engage yet (no snow since the lift). I try to keep a full tank of gas, especially in the winter for lower weight ballast. I also did the lift to get through the pile of snow the plow leaves on our driveway, and for getting out of work when they plow the lot (plow us in) there.

I also like being able to find good tires for cheap, and with the size I run it's easier. It makes the van look meaner. My other choice of vehicle would have been a late 80's AMC Eagle wagon, but they are carbureted and would have been unreliable on frigid winter mornings. Then there would have been parts availability, and probably worse gas mileage than I already get. The van has more interior space, fuel injection, parts availability and AWD so that's what I chose. I'm making it work and having fun with it. It usually only has me in it, but nice to have as a back-up vehicle for the family.
 

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Dan, the issue is not going straight down the highway. It is when you have to swerve to avoid something.

Bottom line, don't be a slave to fashion!
 

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Dan, the issue is not going straight down the highway. It is when you have to swerve to avoid something.

Bottom line, don't be a slave to fashion!

Ever drive a Jeep Wrangler in a heavy crosswind? Might be all over the road with the body and wheels pointing in different directions, but they tend to keep their wheels on the ground.

If a vehicle is top heavy, the driver finds out pretty fast. :)

Watch out for that trailer truck coming toward you in a heavy crosswind or, for that matter, someone pulling a trailer with their vehicle in a heavy crosswind. Can't think of anybody on here that might do that. :)
 

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Anyone adding height to their vehicle should be aware of this:
Dan, the issue is not going straight down the highway. It is when you have to swerve to avoid something.

Bottom line, don't be a slave to fashion!
It doesn't really matters the reason why it was lifted, just be carefull, especially those who likes to travel with heavy stuff on the roof.
 

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Are the upper strut mounts and bearings from Pacifica any beefier than stock van mounts? (or the same)

I know, wishful thinking :)
 

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The mounts are the same, so I assume the bearings are too. Springs are different, so the upper spring mount might be different. The upper strut mounts on the FCS quick struts didn't have the 3 holes punched through the metal plate like the 3rd gen strut mounts have. I don't know if ALL 4th gen strut mounts did away with the 3 holes (hope they did). That would be getting rid of a weak point/design flaw.
 
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The mounts are the same, so I assume the bearings are too. Springs are different, so the upper spring mount might be different. The upper strut mounts on the FCS quick struts didn't have the 3 holes punched through the metal plate like the 3rd gen strut mounts have. I don't know if ALL 4th gen strut mounts did away with the 3 holes (hope they did). That would be getting rid of a weak point/design flaw.

There are three holes at the top of the tower, for bolts from the mount..
 

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My van does look better now. My wife even commented one night that it looks "badass" as she looks at it when pulling into the driveway. It's all wheel drive, so I wanted it to LOOK like it's AWD. I wanted it to stand apart from all the other vans out there, but not in a bad way. I'm not done with it yet, but the suspension lift is done (not going higher).
Pictures Dan, show off that "badass" now that you put all that effort into her...
 
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I've posted some pics on this site before, of the transformation before vs. after. Most are in the Fireplace - What did you do with/to your van today. It's still a work in progress - suspension was just the first step. I tried putting in a shorter sway bar end link today, but it's TOO short - makes the sway bar contact/push up on the outer tie rod at full wheel steering lock. I'll have to go back to the junkyard to find a little longer end links to try out.

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I need to remove that running board, as it is mostly just a plastic cover now. The steel structure under it is missing pieces and rusted out. More to come!
 
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You know, if you really want that lifted feeling with minivan-style capacity, I have this 2001 Grand Cherokee that's just sitting around... 😁
 

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Dan, does Stephanie also know that the van may be unstable at high speed, during emergency maneuvers?
Stephanie should only have to worry if Dan were old and had slow reaction time.... like you and I are.
 

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So that's what is wrong with my front end...
Parkinson's. :oops:
 

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There are three holes at the top of the tower, for bolts from the mount..
The holes are inside the strut mount, on the plate that the strut rod fastens to. The holes usually cause the center of that plate to crack and the strut rod pokes through, then the wheel folds under and the van is sometimes junked because of it (I've seen two like this in the last year at one yard).

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3rd gen mount on the right, 4th gen mount (FCS quick strut) on the left. Center rubber part of mounts are the same (with exception of the 3 holes). The mounting studs are slightly more spread out on the 4th gen strut. Bottom plate of mounts are formed for different size bearings.
 
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Now remember I started with a van that was lower in the front than it should have been, because of incorrect front springs in cheap, worn-out quick struts. I did take height comparison measurements before/after of the passenger front from ground to bottom of rocker seam. Looks like I got about 3" of lift (in reality 2" from what would have been stock height).
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I also found sway bar end links that fit my setup of Pacifica wagon struts and Tema4X4 1 1/4" strut spacers - stock length end links from a 1995-2003 Ford Windstar, Moog part #K8702. I only found one good one at the junkyard so I bought/installed it and checked for fit and possible contact, and it clears everything! I bought a pair of new cheap ones from Rock Auto that are on their way, so I'll modify and fit them and keep the one I installed as a spare. I like end links that are greaseable, and have flats by the joint to hold the stud with a wrench while installing. I like to chop off the excess stud so there is nothing to rust up and make difficult to remove later.
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I had relocated the ABS cable brackets so the grease zerks wouldn't hit, but the new sway bar links have the zerks in the SIDE of the joint to clear everything. Alas, I did the relocation for nothing (except for this test fitment).
 
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